Showing posts with label australians in new york. Show all posts
Showing posts with label australians in new york. Show all posts

Monday, 14 November 2011

Lanvin's Lucas Ossendrijver covers the launch issue of Manuscript


Sydney-based freelance fashion journo Mitchell Oakley-Smith isn’t one for resting on his laurels. Already the author of one coffee table book through Thames & Hudson Australia – Fashion: Australian and New Zealand designers – T&H Australia has just released a second collection of his designer vignettes, Interiors: Australian and New Zealand designers. And he’s just signed a third contract, this time with the Thames & Hudson mothership in London for another, slightly more complex tome that is due for release in late 2013 and is to be co-authored with Australian art curator and writer Alison Kubler. All under the age of 25. But that’s not all. Behold a preview of the first cover of a new menswear magazine called Manuscript, Oakley-Smith’s first effort as a publisher, which is out on Friday. Lensed by London-based Australian Paul Scala at the Lanvin headquarters in Paris, it stars Lanvin’s menswear director Lucas Ossendrijver, an extensive profile of whom features inside the issue. 

The quarterly menswear-focussed art, culture and design title is being produced by Oakley-Smith and his fashion director fiancé Jolyon Mason, with art direction by Nic Adamovich. Available through bookstores, galleries, fashion boutiques and select newsagents, as well as online via manuscriptdaily.com, issue one also includes profiles of British actor Jack Derges, Australian actor Oliver Ackland and artists Olaf Breuning and Lionel Bawden. 

The fashion spreads, shot by Jordan Graham, Liz Ham, Adrian Mesko and Bowen Arico, with styling also by James Dykes and Sonny Groo, feature the models Jeremy Dufour, Jack Vanderhart, Jordan Coulter and twins Jordan and Zac Stenmark. The latter co-star in the ‘City to Surf’ fashion editorial, below, which was shot by Graham and styled by Mason, with grooming by Max May. 

Manuscript was conceived during Oakley-Smith's New York stint earlier this year, which was partially sponsored by the Australians in New York Fashion Foundation

A collective of Australians who have worked their way to the top of the New York fashion industry, AINYFF assists young Australians gain experience and contacts in New York. Oakley-Smith was AINYFF's 2011 runnerup. Check the AINYFF site for this year's finalists, with the 2012 winners announced in Sydney on December 19th with Calvin Klein's Malcolm Carfrae, Harpers Bazaar's Laura Brown, Ford Model's Doll Wright and Condé Nast Asia Pacific's Nancy Pilcher all due to be in attendance.

 


all images: supplied exclusively to frockwriter by manuscript

Thursday, 15 September 2011

Manhattan transfer

krystal glynn at theyskens' theory SS12/getty via daylife
It was hard to miss the Australians in New York over the past week. In what is shaping up as another record season, by frockwriter's count at least 27 28 29 of them stalked the Spring/Summer 2012 runways of New York Fashion Week. On numerous occasions, they were cast alongside other compatriots. Six were cast at Richard Chai, for instance, with five at Marc Jacobs. Not counting a rapidly-expanding Kiwi posse led by Emily Baker, Jessica Clarke and Georgia Fowler, who did many of the same shows. No sign of the better-established Oz names Abbey Lee Kershaw and Catherine McNeil, even though McNeil was spotted at at least one casting, for Rag & Bone. Or for that matter, Bambi Northwood-Blyth, who made such a promising international start this time last year. Carving up the circuit in their place was a new Aussie power pack headed up by Julia Nobis, Codie Young, Dempsey Stewart, Rose Smith, Melissa Johannsen, Ruby-Jean Wilson, Ajak Deng and Amanda Ware, with a swag of new names getting their first bites of the Big Apple. The latter included Krystal Glynn, Nicole Pollard, Sarah Lorimer, Claire Collins, Chrystal Copland, Caris Tiivel and Philippa Gleeson. Fantastic to see two models who are well-established on Australia's runways, finally venturing onto the New York stage: Simone Kerr and Eliza Humble. After the Red Eye to Heathrow overnight, it starts all over again today at London Fashion Week.

Here are their preliminary showlists for the season. Thanks for any headsups on shows we may have missed. UPDATED: WITH LONDON FASHION WEEK SS12 SHOWS. AND MILAN FASHION WEEK.

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JULIA NOBIS
Richard Chai
Tadashi Shoji
Peter Som (opened)
Rebecca Taylor (opened)
Rag & Bone
Lacoste
Alexander Wang
Jill Stuart
Derek Lam
Diane von Furstenberg
Son Jung Wan (opened and closed)
Edun
Tommy Hilfiger
Preen
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Tory Burch
Vera Wang
Narciso Rodriguez
Theyskens' Theory
3.1 Phillip Lim
Michael Kors
Proenza Schouler (closed)
Reed Krakoff
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs
Ports 1961

= 26

ROSE SMITH
Richard Chai
Doo.Ri
The Row
Edun
Jill Stuart
Adam
Band of Outsiders (opened)
Y-3
Zero Maria Cornejo (opened)
Tory Burch
Marchesa
Tibi
3.1 Phillip Lim
Ports 1961
Daks

= 15

CODIE YOUNG
Richard Chai
Rebecca Taylor
United Bamboo 
Suno
Jill Stuart (closed)
Graeme Armour
Thakoon
Tory Burch
Rodarte
Tibi
Hexa by Cuho
Milly by Michelle Smith
Wayne
Marc Jacobs

= 14

MELISSA 'MJ' JOHANNSEN
Steven Alan
Rachel Comey
Nicholas K
The Row
Band of Outsiders
Academy of Art University
Tracy Reese
Creatures of the Wind
Rodarte
Pink Tartan (opened)
Fotini
Elle Tahari
Jeremy Scott
Patrick Ervell

= 14

RUBY-JEAN WILSON
United Bamboo
Peter Som
Yigal Azrouel (opened)
Graeme Armour (closed)
Y-3
Jil Sander Navy
Reem Acra
Marchesa
Sophie Theallet
Jeremy Scott
Marc Jacobs
Patrick Ervell

= 12

KRYSTAL GLYNN
Richard Chai
Peter Som
Rebecca Taylor
Suno
Helmut Lang
Band of Outsiders
Honor
Tory Burch
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
Theyskens' Theory
Marc Jacobs

= 11

NICOLE POLLARD
Nicholas K
Ruffian
Band of Outsiders
Sally La Pointe (closed)
Graeme Armour
Rachel Roy
Theyskens Theory
Hexa by Cuho (closed)
Norman Ambrose
Supima

=10

DEMPSEY STEWART
Richard Chai
Rebecca Taylor (closed)
Suno (closed)
Graeme Armour
Honor
Thakoon
3.1 Phillip Lim
Jill Stuart
Marc Jacobs

= 9

CHRYSTAL COPLAND
Costello Tagliapietra (closed)
Libertine
Pink Tartan
Emerson
Hexa by Cuho
Jeremy Scott
Norman Ambrose 
Arise African Fashion Collective

= 8
 
SARAH LORIMER
Steven Alan
Wes Gordon
Christian Siriano
Libertine
A Detacher
Wayne
Karen Walker
Park Choon Moo

= 8

PHILIPPA GLEESON
Jenny Packham
Rachel Roy
Billy Reid
L.A.M.B.
Karen Walker
Nanette Lepore (opened)
Chado Ralph Rucci
Naeem Khan

= 8 

CLAIRE COLLINS
Faster by Mark Fast
Cut25 by Yigal Azrouel
Rebecca Minkoff
Rachel Zoe
Suno
Wes Gordon
Sally LaPointe

= 7 

JESS GOLD
Rebecca Taylor
Helmut Lang
Jen Kao
Faster by Mark Fast
Rachel Zoe
Francesc by Frank Tell

= 6

AMANDA WARE
BCBG by MAX AZRIA
Ruffian
Monique Lhuillier
Carlos Miele
Hervé Léger
L'Wren Scott

= 6

JADE JACKSON
Yigal Azrouel
Carlos Miele
Sophie Theallet
Rad by Rad Hourani
Milly by Michelle Smith
Ohne Titel

= 6

LAUREN MOODY
Imitation of Christ
Sally LaPointe
Juan Carlos Obando
Argentine Designers
Nomia
Arise African Fashion Collective

= 6

AJAK DENG
Richard Chai
Jason Wu
Edun
Ohne Titel
Wayne

= 5

LAUREN BROWN
Kimberley Ovitz
Son Jung Wan
Reed Krakoff
Chado Ralph Rucci
Arise African Fashion Collective


 = 5

CARIS TIIVEL
Christian Siriano
Bibi
Project Runway
Bibhu Mohapatra
Josie Natori

= 5

ELIZA HUMBLE
Erin by Erin Fetherston
Chris Benz
Gen Art
Douglas Hannant

= 4

SIMONE KERR
Christian Siriano
Pink Tartan
Betsey Johnson
The Blonds

= 4

TOM BULL
Imitation of Christ
Perry Ellis (opened and closed)
Marithé et François Girbaud
Sergio Davila

= 4

JAKE GORDON
Billy Reid
Dominic Lewis
Aston Mozie
Nexus Showroom

= 4

ANDREJ PEJIC
Custo Barcelona (opened)
Jeremy Scott
Mala Breton (opened)

= 3

ELYSE TAYLOR
Nicole Miller
VPL
DKNY

= 3

CAITLIN LOMAX
Yigal Azrouel
3.1 Phillip Lim

= 2

JACK VANDERHART
DKNY Men
Argentine Designers

= 2

VICTORIA LEE

DKNY
Libertine

= 2

VANESSA MILDE
Imitation of Christ
Eva Minge

= 2

MALLORY JANSEN
WISB (Way It Should Be)
Tribune Standard

= 2


photo gallery:


1/ julia nobis, calvin klein/getty via daylife
2/ krystal glynn, marc jacobs/getty via daylife
3/ dempsey stewart, marc jacobs/getty via daylife
4/ rose smith, marchesa/getty via daylife
5/ codie young, jill stuart/getty via daylife
6/ ruby-jean wilson, marchesa/getty via daylife
7/ ajak deng, jason wu/getty via daylife
8/ melissa johannsen, rodarte/getty via daylife
9/ nicole pollard, theyskens’ theory/getty via daylife
10/ chrystal copland, costello tagliatietra/style.com
11/ amanda ware, hervé leger/getty via daylife
12/ jack vanderhart, DKNY men/GQ italia via TFS
13/ sarah lorimer, karen walker/getty via daylife
14/ eliza humble, douglas hannant/getty via daylife
15/ claire collins, rachel zoe/getty via daylife
16/ andrej pejic, jeremy scott/getty via daylife
17/ jade jackson, carlos miele/getty via daylife
18/ lauren brown, chado ralph rucci/getty via daylife
19/ philippa gleeson, nanette lepore/getty via daylife
20/ lauren moody, juan carlos obando/getty via daylife
21/ jess gold, helmut lang/getty via daylife
22/ caris tiivel, christian siriano/getty via daylife
23/ caitlin lomax, 3.1 phillip lim/getty via daylife
24/ simone kerr, christian siriano/getty via daylife
25/ victoria lee, DKNY/getty via daylife
26/ elyse taylor, DKNY/getty via daylife
27/ vanessa milde (R), imitation of christ/style.com
28/ tom bull, perry ellis/getty via daylife
29/ jake gordon, billy reid/vogue.co.uk

Monday, 27 December 2010

Jessica Gomes is the Megan Gale of South Korea


There were only two models at last week’s Australians in New York Fashion Foundation party to announce the 2011 AINYFF grant winner, each representing opposite ends of the Australian modelling spectrum. The upwardly mobile high fashion girl Bambi Northwood-Blyth, who seems to be getting thinner and thinner. And the more voluptuous Jessica Gomes (whose surname FYI rhymes with “homes”). Gomes has, not surprisingly, found a niche in the ‘sexy’ arena, whose imagery primarily appeals to straight men - as distinct from the flatter-chested, ballerina-like gazelles who tend to populate the world’s top runways and ‘highbrow’ fashion editorial. A few models have managed to cross over between the two arenas, Miranda Kerr being a good case in point. Gomes is on the December cover of Australia’s Men’s Style magazine and has appeared in Sports Illustrated’s famous Swimsuit Edition three times. Not forgetting her lingerie-clad cameo in the 2007 tvc for Sean Combs’ steamy 'Unforgivable Woman'which was banned in the US

After shooting commercials for Hyundai and LG, Gomes, who is half Chinese and half Portuguese, has also become quite the celebrity in South Korea over the past two years, mirroring the career trajectory of another Australian model in Italy - Megan Gale. 

Gomes now spends a lot of her time on the Korean peninsula shooting advertising campaigns, editorial and making television appearances. She has also starred in two seasons of her own South Korean reality tv show called ‘My name is Jessica Gomes’ on the On Style channel. 

I recorded this quick chat after the AINYFF announcement.


Frockwriter: What are your holiday plans?  
Jessica Gomes: I’m going back to Perth for Christmas and then I come back to Sydney. And then I fly to Melbourne for a big wedding on New Year’s Eve. My friend Rebecca Twigley and Chris Judd. They’re getting married on New Year’s Eve in Melbourne.

FW: So is she wearing a backless dress?  
JG: (Laughs) I don’t know, probably. It’s going to be so much fun, I’m really excited about it. Then I come back and I’m shooting with some Korean clients.

FW: Because you have a Korean talk show, don’t you?  
JG: I do.

FW: It’s in English?  
JG: In English. It’s a fashion channel called On Style. I have my own tv show where they follow me around and I talk about fashion, I go shopping, they come with me to my photoshoots. They follow me to New York. And then I’m actually going back to New York for the Sports Illustrated party. We’re doing that in New York and in Vegas. Yeah, so lots of things are happening. It’s fun. 




 


FW: So you’re based in New York now? 
JG: Yes. Well…I’ve been living in New York for seven years, but now I’m spending a lot more time in Seoul in South Korea.
 
FW: In a profile on Seven Network's Sunday Night program in July - entitled 'Thin is in' - you were quite vocal on the body image issue, talking about how you had been told you were too 'fat' to work as a mainstream fashion model. 
JG: I think you’ve just got to be comfortable with who you are. Every girl has their own opinion and I guess there’s pressure in, you know, every business that you’re in. But there is a lot of pressure obviously to keep really thin. And we definitely do criticise ourselves and compare ourselves to other girls. And so I just wanted to say to other girls that, you know, it’s cool to talk about it. It’s there. I’m not saying that I’ve got anything against it.
 
FW: Did you cop any flak from it? 
JG: Not at all actually. I got a lot of fans. A lot of girls were writing to me saying, ‘Like OMG you’re so inspirational’. I guess people just thought it was humbling to see a girl talk about it.
 
FW: But you have found a niche in the ‘sexy’ modelling area – lingerie, swimwear etc. And obviously, those girls earn a lot more money than straight high fashion models. Forbes’ annual high earning models list, for example, is filled with Victoria’s Secret models. The high fashion arena, however, likes models to be ultra thin - with few exceptions, eg Lara Stone.  
JG: Yeah exactly, whom I absolutely love. All I’m saying is, curvy girls can wear fashion and look really cool. And photographs, you know… you’re portrayed in a different light. It just depends how you’re styled and what they’ve done to you and what angle and what lighting and makeup.. And I’m just trying to say to all the other regular girls out there that aren’t models, to realise that it is a fantasy and it’s not all real. And not stress out about it and get eating disorders.
 
FW: Some girls are extremely thin. 
JG: I mean I guess it’s to each their own. For me, I love my food and I want to be healthy and I think that being voluptuous is beautiful and womanly and brave. And I guess if there are more girls like me and Lara Stone who can still work and do everything, then that’s awesome. Because it just paves the way.
 
FW: The general public would find it very hard to understand that you would be considered ‘plus size’ compared to a regular (ie size 0) fashion model because you are for all intents and purposes extremely slim.
JG: They probably think it’s nuts. I did have some people say to me ‘Oh I can’t believe that you’re saying that….you’re so skinny’. I am bigger than most other models. And that’s why I felt like I was…’Ooh I’m plus size’ or whatever. I mean it’s just the way the industry is. I mean it is very kind of ... almost……crazy. (Laughs) I mean it is. It’s crazy. It’s crazy.
 
FW: How long have you been modelling?
JG: I’ve been modelling for over ten years now,
 
FW: Do you think it’s crazier now than when you started? 
JG: I think it’s just getting good. Like I’m actually just really enjoying it and I’m really starting to be confident with myself. I really feel like I’ve now got a place and I have an identity. And I feel really good about it. And I’ve definitely grown up doing it, so I feel really mature about it all now, so that’s really great and refreshing for me. Because now I’m like, ‘Oh I get it. I’m not mad’.
 
FW: What about pressures in South Korea? Their best known fashion model, Daul Kim, sadly committed suicide.  
JG: Not for me because I have created my own brand over there. And that’s what I am over there: I’m the girl who looks like she could be Korean, but she’s also got this amazing, sexy body and that’s kind of what the whole niche is. That’s kind of what Megan Gale did in Italy. I do a lot of the commercials over there, I do a lot of magazine work, I’ve been on a lot of talk shows, I’ve got my own talk show. So I’m very recognisable over there.
 
FW: How long have you been working in South Korea? 
JG: For the past two and a half years.
 
FW: Do you have an apartment over there?
JG: No but I will be looking into that next year for sure.
 
FW: Interesting place. I’ve been three times.
JG: I feel like it’s a small Tokyo. The Koreans are very cautious and they’re strict and they’re very clean and orderly and they work so hard.
 
FW: The bathhouse culture is fascinating.
JG: Yes the bathhouses are amazing. I’ve been to a lot of them and love doing that. But you know, it’s nice coming home and just hanging out here in Australia. Sydney is so beautiful and I love coming home and working and doing shoots here because everyone is so cool and nice. I love New York as well.
 
FW: So are you a bridesmaid on Friday?
JG: No I’m not, just a guest. I think her sisters are bridesmaids.
 
FW: Having now spent 10 years in the industry, what would be your advice to any girls who want to be models?
JG: Just be yourself and never lose your integrity and always follow your own rules. Be smart, think about the business and about setting yourself up. Because that’s what's so great about it. Because I’ve been able to travel and learn a lot of things. I think it’s all about being smart and staying true to yourself is also very important.


Thursday, 11 November 2010

Australians in New York Fashion Foundation, the sophomore edition

ainyff

Congrats to Sydney designer Dion Lee who won the fashion category of the 2010 Qantas Spirit of Youth Awards last night in Sydney. And congrats are also due to 10 other Australians who frockwriter can reveal are the 2010 Australians in New York Fashion Foundation finalists: Mitchell Oakley Smith, Laura Wade, Bronwyn O’Brien, Katherine Watson, Jacqueline Tyrrell, Natalia Catherine Muller, Ned Rogers, Darren McDonald, Saskia Wilson and Alice McConnell. The winner, to be announced at a function in Sydney on December 20th, will receive financial support to live in New York for one year, in addition to introductions to the cream of the New York fashion business from the AINYFF founders, Australians who have worked their way to the top there (without work experience or mentorship programs, it’s worth noting). UPDATE 21/12/10: Congratulations are due to Laura Wade, who has been awarded the AINYFF's 2011 grant, with Mitchell Oakley-Smith named runnerup.


The latter include Malcolm Carfrae, Executive Vice President of Global Communications at Calvin Klein Inc, Laura Brown, the features/special projects director at Harpers Bazaar US and Colac Pictures president Julie Anne Quay, the former studio manager for Steven Meisel and executive editor of V Magazine

The initiative was launched in 2009 to assist young Australians gain footholds in the most competitive fashion media market in the world. The inaugural inductee, Melbourne fashion designer Georgia Lazzarro (pictured above, with Calvin Klein Collection womenswear director Francisco Costa in New York and below, at the L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival in March this year) is currently completing an internship at the Calvin Klein headquarters, following a stint at Narciso Rodriguez. 

But just getting to the AINYFF finalist stage can apparently be a career booster. Frockwriter has heard stories of foundation members also making industry introductions for finalists.



 

Sunday, 14 March 2010

A chat with Michael Angel



This blog has talked about New York-based Australian designer Michael Angel on several occasions. First, when his collection popped up in US Vogue, before there was a peep out of its Australian counterpart (which has yet to cover his work, reports Angel). Then we interviewed him via phone backstage, moments before he opened New York Fashion Week. Frockwriter just returned from a Calvin Klein dinner at Cutler & Co in Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, where we finally got to meet Angel in person. Calvin Klein Collection designer Francisco Costa and the company's head of communications, Malcolm Carfrae, will both talk at the L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival's Business Seminar on Friday. Later today, Angel will take part in something called the Designer Forum. Here's a preview of a few points he will be discussing. The only quiet place we could find was the loo - hence the dim lighting - so we locked ourselves in one cubicle and filmed away.