Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Summer of the thirty-eighth doll

dempsey stewart at louis vuitton SS12/getty via daylife
Take a bow ladies - and gentlemen. Thirty-eight Australian models have just helped wrap up the Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear runway season in New York, London, Milan and Paris - by frockwriter's estimate, a 35percent increase in numbers from the previous season. And what a season it has been, culminating over this past week in Paris, where the 18-strong Australian contingent included Miranda Kerr. No Balenciaga exclusive for Kerr, for the first time in four seasons. But after making her name as one of the world's highest-paid models, thanks to a lucrative contract with lingerie giant Victoria's Secret, how fantastic to see Kerr take her place alongside the world's top high fashion girls in a string of other blue chip brand shows, from Christian Dior to Lanvin and Chanel. Flanked by Abbey Lee Kershaw and Catherine McNeil, who is looking better than ever after a year's break from the shows, it was like the holy triumvirate of Australian modelling reunited. They were joined by Julia Nobis who walked in, wait for it, 72 shows, opening six. This may well make Nobis the busiest model - of any nationality - of the SS12 season by show numbers. Oddly, Nobis has yet to even be accorded a ranking on models.com's Top 50 Women list. One assumes this may soon change.   
A few honorable mentions.

Rose Smith added a fourth consecutive Chanel show to her burgeoning portfolio - not bad, for someone who didn't even register on the international radar at the beginning of the year. At 41 shows, Smith's was the second-highest Australian show tally. She was closely tailed by Codie Young, Dempsey Stewart, Ruby Jean Wilson and Melissa Johannsen.

After booking the Chanel haute couture show in Paris in July, Caitlin Lomax bagged some very impressive names in her first fully-fledged show season, among them Prada, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton.

But the dark horse award most definitely goes to Priscilla's Chrystal Copland, who entered the season without a shred of hype and walked in 21 shows across the four cities, quickly emerging as a casting director's favourite. Copland was accorded a prominent position in eight of these shows, closing four and opening four - including yesterday's Louis Vuitton show, one of the most prestigious gigs of the season (Kate Moss had closing honours).

See Copland (followed by Lomax, Wilson, Nobis and Stewart) in this video below, as the curtain rises on Louis Vuitton's spectacular circus carousel stage. The haunting musical score - in fact the theme from Dario Argento's 1977 slasher classic Suspiria - offered a subversive counterpoint to the sugared almond sweetness of the collection's broderie anglaise, cutwork lace and maribou feather-embellished confections. Copland is most definitely one to watch.





Congrats to all the models and agencies.

Below are the complete Spring/Summer 2012 Australian showlists and a photo gallery of the girls of Paris. The New York shows are in black type; London, blue; Milan, red; and Paris, in grey.

Interesting to see the 'Australian runway invasion' story take hold in the Australian media over the past month. The Daily Telegraph, The Sunday Telegraph and vogue.com.au were among numerous publications and websites to have picked the story up, with Grazia Australia devoting this week's cover story to the models' purported pay packets. With Australians on every top runway, it was difficult to ignore them.

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JULIA NOBIS
Richard Chai
Tadashi Shoji
Peter Som (opened)
Rebecca Taylor (opened)
Rag & Bone
Lacoste
Alexander Wang
Jill Stuart
Derek Lam
Diane von Furstenberg
Son Jung Wan (opened and closed)
Edun
Tommy Hilfiger
Preen
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Tory Burch
Vera Wang
Narciso Rodriguez
Theyskens' Theory
3.1 Phillip Lim
Michael Kors
Proenza Schouler (closed)
Reed Krakoff
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs
Ports 1961
Jaeger London
Jonathan Saunders
Topshop Unique
Richard Nicoll
Acne
Christopher Kane
Antonio Berardi
Giles Deacon
Burberry
Alberta Ferretti
Angelo Marani
Francesco Scognamiglio
Max Mara
Prada
Anteprima
Gabriele Colangelo
Jil Sander
Just Cavalli
Marni
Missoni
Versus
Roberto Cavalli
1st Classe Alviero Martini
Pedro Lourenco (opened)
Dries van Noten (opened)
Rochas
Balenciaga
Sharon Wauchob
Nina Ricci
Barbara Bui
Ann Demeulemeester
Roland Mouret
Lanvin
Yohji Yamamoto

Sonia Rykiel
Haider Ackermann
Viktor & Rolf (closed)
Loewe
Céline
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno

Chanel
Valentino
Alexander McQueen (opened)
Louis Vuitton 
Miu Miu
 

= 72

ROSE SMITH
Richard Chai
Doo.Ri
The Row
EdunJill Stuart
Adam
Band of Outsiders (opened)
Y-3
Zero Maria Cornejo (opened)
Tory Burch
Marchesa
Tibi
3.1 Phillip Lim
Ports 1961
Daks
Jaeger London
Mulberry
Erdem
Antonio Berardi
Jaeger London
Mulberry
Erdem
Antonio Berardi
Blugirl
Anteprima (closed)
Antonio Marras
C’N’C Costume National
Gabriele Colangelo
Frankie Morello
Ter et Bantine
D&G
Dolce e Gabbana
Aquilano.Rimondi
Dries van Noten
Anthony Vaccarello
Sharon Wauchob (closed)
Barbara Bui
Uniqueness
Anne Valérie Hash
Cacharel
Sonia Rykiel
Giambattista Valli
Valentin Yudashkin
Chanel
Shiatzy Chen

 
= 41

DEMPSEY STEWART
Richard Chai
Rebecca Taylor (closed)
Suno (closed)
Graeme Armour
Honor
Thakoon
3.1 Phillip Lim
Jill Stuart
Marc Jacobs
Julien Macdonald
House of Holland
Topshop Unique
Richard Nicoll
Emilio de la Morena
Pringle of Scotland
Erdem
Giles Deacon
Peter Pilotto
Angelo Marani
Anteprima
Antonio Marras
Gabriele Colangelo
Genny
Marco de Vincenzo
Byblos
Massimo Rebecchi
Damir Doma
Dries van Noten
Mugler
Thimister (closed)
Ann Demeulemeester
AF Vandevorst
Rick Owens
Viktor & Rolf
Loewe
Vanessa Bruno

Ingrid Vlaso
Louis Vuitton
 
= 38

CODIE YOUNG
Richard Chai
Rebecca Taylor
United Bamboo
Suno
Jill Stuart (closed)
Graeme Armour
Thakoon
Tory Burch
Rodarte
Tibi
Hexa by Cuho
Milly by Michelle Smith
Wayne
Marc Jacobs
Julien Macdonald
House of Holland
Paul Smith
Mulberry
Erdem
Peter Pilotto
Roccobarocco
Antonio Marras
Moschino Cheap and Chic
Just Cavalli
Marni
Marco de Vincenzo
Aquilano.Rimondi
Rue du Mail
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Carven
AF Vandevorst
Rick Owens
Sonia Rykiel
Anne Valérie Hash
Akris
  

 
= 35

ABBEY LEE KERSHAW
Tom Ford (opened)
Pringle of Scotland (opened)
John Rocha (opened, closed)
Burberry
Matthew Williamson
Gucci
Alberta Ferretti
Fendi
Ermanno Scervino
Prada
Etro
Versace
Bottega Veneta
Pucci
Dolce e Gabbana
Roberto Cavalli
Anthony Vaccarello
Mugler (closed)
Nina Ricci
Balmain (closed)
Isabel Marant
Viktor & Rolf
Haider Ackermann
Kanye West
Stella McCartney
Yves Saint Laurent (closed) 

Chanel
Hakaan
Paul & Joe  
Elie Saab

= 30

MELISSA 'MJ' JOHANNSEN
Steven Alan
Rachel Comey
Nicholas K
The Row
Band of Outsiders
Academy of Art University
Tracy Reese
Creatures of the Wind
Rodarte
Pink Tartan (opened)
Fotini
Elle Tahari
Jeremy Scott
Patrick Ervell
Ashish
Zoe Jordan
Mulberry
Peter Jensen
Thomas Tait
Peter Pilotto
Mark Fast
Simonetta Ravizza
Blugirl
Rocco Barocco
Parah
Byblos
Amaya Arzuaga

Maison Martin Margiela
 


= 28

RUBY JEAN WILSON
United Bamboo
Peter Som
Yigal Azrouel (opened)
Graeme Armour (closed)
Y-3
Jil Sander Navy
Reem Acra
Marchesa
Sophie Theallet
Jeremy Scott
Marc Jacobs
Patrick Ervell
Julien Macdonald
Jonathan Saunders
Paul Smith
Topshop Unique
John Rocha
Giles Deacon
Burberry
Albino
C’N’C Costume National (opened and closed)
Gabriele Colangelo (opened)
Albino
Trussardi
Jil Sander
Frankie Morello

Louis Vuitton

= 27

CHRYSTAL COPLAND
Costello Tagliapietra (closed)
Libertine
Pink Tartan
Emerson
Hexa by Cuho
Jeremy Scott
Norman Ambrose
Arise African Fashion Collective
Jonathan Saunders (closed)
Topshop Unique
Giles Deacon
Antonio Marras
Damir Doma
Thimister (opened)
Carven

A.F. Vandevorst (closed)
Anne Valérie Hash (opened)

Jean Charles de Castelbajac (closed)
Véronique Leroy (opened)
Moncler Gamme Rouge 
Louis Vuitton (opened)

= 21

CAITLIN LOMAX
Yigal Azrouel
3.1 Phillip Lim
Jonathan Saunders
Topshop Unique
Richard Nicoll
Christopher Kane
Giles Deacon
Aquascutum 
Alberta Ferretti
Prada
Antonio Marras
Sportmax
Versus
Gareth Pugh
Sharon Wauchob
Loewe
Giambattista Valli
Vanessa Bruno

Louis Vuitton
Miu Miu

= 20

AMANDA WARE
BCBG by Max Azria
Ruffian
Monique Lhuillier
Carlos Miele
Hervé Léger
L'Wren Scott
Clements Ribeiro
Marios Schwab
Nicole Farhi
Antonio Berardi
Pringle of Scotland
Andrew Gn
Kenzo
Luis Buchinho
Léonard
Atsuro Tayama
Lie Sang Bong 

= 17

AJAK DENG
Richard Chai
Jason Wu
Edun
Ohne Titel
Wayne
Matthew Williamson
Erdem
Todd Lynn 
Mary Katrantzou (opened) 
Damir Doma
Jean Paul Gaultier
Christian Dior
Vivienne Westwood
Hermès

Paco Rabanne 

= 15

KRYSTAL GLYNN
Richard Chai
Peter Som
Rebecca Taylor
Suno
Helmut Lang
Band of Outsiders
Honor
Tory Burch
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
Theyskens' Theory
Marc Jacobs

= 11  

JADE JACKSON
Yigal Azrouel
Carlos Miele
Sophie Theallet
Rad by Rad Hourani
Milly by Michelle Smith
Ohne Titel
Damir Doma
Thimister
Haider Ackermann
Moon Young Hee

Vivienne Westwood
 

= 11

NICOLE POLLARD
Nicholas K
Ruffian
Band of Outsiders
Sally La Pointe (closed)
Graeme Armour
Rachel Roy
Theyskens Theory
Hexa by Cuho (closed)
Norman Ambrose
Supima

= 10

BAMBI NORTHWOOD-BLYTH
Jonathan Saunders
Topshop Unique
Giles Deacon 
Mugler
Uniqueness
Kanye West
Léonard

Véronique Leroy 

= 8

JESS GOLD
Rebecca Taylor
Helmut Lang
Jen Kao
Faster by Mark Fast
Rachel Zoe
Francesc by Frank Tell

Ashish
Thomas Tait

= 8

SARAH LORIMER
Steven Alan
Wes Gordon
Christian Siriano
Libertine
A Detacher
Wayne
Karen Walker
Park Choon Moo

= 8

PHILIPPA GLEESON
Jenny Packham
Rachel Roy
Billy Reid
L.A.M.B.
Karen Walker
Nanette Lepore (opened)
Chado Ralph Rucci
Naeem Khan

= 8 

MIRANDA KERR
Christian Dior
Lanvin
Viktor & Rolf
Loewe
John Galliano
Stella McCartney
Chanel

= 7


CATHERINE MCNEIL
Matthew Williamson
Pringle of Scotland
Gareth Pugh
Rick Owens
Haider Ackermann
Jean Paul Gaultier (closed)
Hermès

= 7

VICTORIA LEE
DKNY
Libertine  
Blumarine
Blugirl
Byblos
Phillip Plein
Versace showroom presentation
= 7

CLAIRE COLLINS
Faster by Mark Fast
Cut25 by Yigal Azrouel
Rebecca Minkoff
Rachel Zoe
Suno
Wes Gordon
Sally LaPointe

= 7 

LAUREN MOODY
Imitation of Christ
Sally LaPointe
Juan Carlos Obando
Argentine Designers
Nomia
Arise African Fashion Collective
Limi Feu

= 7

LAUREN BROWN
Kimberley Ovitz
Son Jung Wan
Reed Krakoff
Chado Ralph Rucci
Arise African Fashion Collective


= 5

CARIS TIIVEL
Christian SirianoBibi
Project Runway
Bibhu Mohapatra
Josie Natori

= 5

ELIZA HUMBLE
Erin by Erin Fetherston
Chris Benz
Gen Art
Douglas Hannant

= 4

SIMONE KERR
Christian Siriano
Pink Tartan
Betsey Johnson
The Blonds

= 4

TOM BULL
Imitation of Christ
Perry Ellis (opened and closed)
Marithé et François Girbaud
Sergio Davila

= 4

JAKE GORDON
Billy Reid
Dominic Lewis
Aston Mozie
Nexus Showroom

= 4

ANDREJ PEJIC
Custo Barcelona (opened)
Jeremy Scott
Mala Breton (opened)

= 3

ELYSE TAYLOR
Nicole Miller
VPL
DKNY

= 3

JACK VANDERHART
DKNY Men
Argentine Designers

= 2 

VANESSA MILDE
Imitation of Christ
Eva Minge

= 2

MALLORY JANSEN
WISB (Way It Should Be)
Tribune Standard

= 2

TALLULAH MORTON
Jean Paul Gaultier

= 1

LYDIA WILLEMINA COLLINS
Jean Paul Gaultier

= 1

ROBYN LAWLEY
Elena Mirò

= 1

GEO BURKE
Elena Mirò

= 1

paris shows photo gallery:

1/ miranda kerr, lanvin/getty via daylife 
2/ abbey lee kershaw, balmain/getty
3/ catherine mcneil, viktor & rolf/getty 
4/ julia nobis, balenciaga/style.com
5/ rose smith, chanel/style.com

6/ dempsey stewart, viktor & rolf/getty
7/ codie young, sonia rykiel/getty

8/ ajak deng, christian dior/getty
9/ ruby jean wilson, louis vuitton/style.com
10/ chrystal copland, louis vuitton/style.com 
11/ caitlin lomax, miu miu/style.com 
12/ melissa johannsen, maison martin margiela/style.com
13/ amanda ware, giambattisa valli/style.com
14/ bambi northwood-blyth, mugler/getty 
15/ jade jackson, thimister/getty
16/ tallulah morton, jean paul gaultier/style.com 
17/ lydia willemina collins,  jean paul gaultier/style.com
18/ lauren moody, limi feu/style.com

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