Thursday, 10 March 2011

Gumleaf runway mafia

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chanel FW1112/style.com
So another ready-to-wear season bites the dust. Below are, to the best of frockwriter's knowledge, the final show tallies for Australian models on the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 runways. All 27 of them. As already mentioned, at least 18 Australians walked at New York Fashion Week last month, with others joining the circuit in London and Milan. And what a fascinating season it has been. A very clear vanguard of five names emerged. No surprise of course that even though she missed the New York leg, Abbey Lee Kershaw walked in 24 of the season's biggest shows. In her third show season, Julia Nobis, who did the entire circuit, wound up with 50 top shows under her belt. Not far behind her were Dempsey Stewart and Codie Young, in their first international seasons, with an impressive 42 and 39 shows respectively. Ajak Deng walked in 25 shows.

Behind them, a slew of other Australian models scoring a smaller volume of nevertheless highly prestigious shows, many of them under an exclusive arrangement: Miranda Kerr at Balenciaga; Jessica Hart at Matthew Williamson; Lydia Willemina Collins at Givenchy; Ruby Jean Wilson at Yves Saint Laurent (among others); Rose Smith at Fendi and Chanel; Jack Vanderhart at Calvin Klein Collection; Bambi Northwood-Blyth at Chanel (among others). Andrej Pejic continued to make headlines wherever he went and great to see Myf Shepherd make such a confident return, 18 months after her last show season.

On numerous occasions, designers cast multiple Australians in the same show - at times, amusingly, even dispatching them onto the runway in consecutive order.

Chanel cast five Australians (above: Kershaw, Nobis, Young, Stewart and Northwood-Blyth) and Giles Deacon, eight (below: Nobis, Deng, Young, Stewart, Wilson, Northwood-Blyth, Alice Burdeu and Lauren Brown). While Chloe, Dries van Noten and Marc Jacobs all cast Nobis, Stewart and Young. 

Not forgetting the extraordinary success of New Zealand's Emily Baker - who walked in 60 shows in her first season, undoubtedly making her one of the top runway girls of FW1112 - and Jessica Clarke, the talent continues to rise from downunder.

"Clearly the modeling industry has fixated on Australia and New Zealand as an
incredible new source for emerging faces" Wayne Sterling, the co-founder and editorial director of online modelling authority models.com - the so-called 'NASDAQ of the modelling business' - told frockwriter. "The results of great scouting speak for themselves and now Down Under stands as a Top 3 scouting resource alongside Holland and Russia".


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giles deacon FW1112/style.com



Julia Nobis
Richard Chai
Tadashi Shoji
Rag & Bone
Jill Stuart
Edun
Alexander Wang
Victoria Beckham
Thakoon
Marc Jacobs
Narciso Rodriguez
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Diesel Black Gold
Vera Wang    
Ports 1961
Michael Kors
3.1 Phillip Lim
Proenza Schouler
Isaac Mizrahi
Topshop Unique
Giles
Francesco Scognamiglio
No 21
Sportmax
Anteprima
Gianfranco Ferre
Les Copains
Iceberg
Aquilano.Rimondi
Versus
Missoni
Lorella Signorino Atelier
Roberto Cavalli
Gabriele Colangelo (closed)
Balenciaga
Undercover
Nina Ricci
Dries van Noten
Rick Owens
Sharon Wauchob
Yohji Yamamoto
Loewe
Celine
Kenzo
Emanuel Ungaro
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Chanel
Alexander McQueen

Louis Vuitton
Miu Miu

= 50

Dempsey Stewart
Richard Chai (opened)
United Bamboo
Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Preen
Diane von Furstenberg
Cynthia Steffe
Karen Walker (closed)
3.1 Phillip Lim

Ports 1961
sass & bide (closed)
House of Holland
Kinder Aggugini (opened)
Richard Nicoll
Acne
Topshop Unique
Burberry
Giles
Prada

Daks
Gabriele Colangelo
Anteprima
Antonio Marras
Aquilano.Rimondi
Versus
Marni
Roberto Cavalli
Thierry Mugler
Gareth Pugh
Dries van Noten
Barbara Bui
Ann Demeulemeester
Pedro Lourenco
Loewe (opened)
Cacharel
Andrew Gn
Emanuel Ungaro
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Giambattista Valli
Shiatzy Chen
Louis Vuitton

= 42

Codie Young
Wayne (opened, closed)
Richard Chai
Peter Som
Band of Outsiders
Thakoon
Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Hexa by Kuho
Rodarte
Halston
Milly by Michelle Smith
Calvin Klein
Kinder Aggugini
Acne
Topshop Unique
Erdem
Giles
Julien Macdonald
Ermanno Scervino
Anteprima
Antonio Marras
Aquilano.Rimondi
Moschino Cheap & Chic

Roberto Cavalli
Marni (opened)
Rue du Mail
Dries van Noten
Rick Owens
Lanvin
Cacharel
Sonia Rykiel
Akris
Costume National
Kenzo
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Giambattista Valli
Chanel
Shiatzy Chen

= 39

Ajak Deng
Richard Chai
Nicole Miller
G-Star
Libertine
Preen
Carolina Herrera                            
Jen Kao (opened)
Tibi
Reed Krakoff
Issa
Matthew Williamson
Acne
TopShop Unique (closed)
Todd Lynn
Michael van der Ham
Peter Pilotto
Giles
Ermanno Scervino
Thierry Mugler
Filippe Oliveira Baptista
Zac Posen
Lanvin
Givenchy
Hermes
Stella McCartney

= 25


Abbey Lee Kershaw
Issa London (opened)
John Rocha (opened, closed)
Burberry
Julien Macdonald
Gucci
Ermanno Scervino
Fendi
Bottega Veneta
Versace (opened)
Gianfranco Ferre
Etro (closed)
Salvatore Ferragamo
Dolce e Gabbana
Emilio Pucci
Bottega Veneta
Balmain
Isabel Marant
Viktor & Rolf
Stella McCartney
Yves Saint Laurent
Chanel
Paul & Joe (closed)
Miu Miu
Elie Saab

= 24


Annaleise Smith
Costello Tagliapietra (opened)
Cushnie et Ochs
Daniel Vosovic
Douglas Hannant
Naeem Khan
Odd Molly
Theyskens' Theory
Venexiana
Zang Toi
Betsey Johnson
Yoanna Baraschi
Pamela Love
Risto Bimbiloski
Pamela Roland
Song Jung Wan

= 15

Myf Shepherd
Angelo Marani
Sportmax
DSquared2
Anne Valérie Hash
Anthony Vaccarello
Gaspard Yurkievich (opened)
AV Vandervorst (opened)
Sonia Rykiel
Vivienne Westwood
Kenzo
Celine
Shiatzy Chen

= 12

Andrej Pejic
NAHM
Robert Geller
Richard Chai
Yoana Baraschi
Custo Barcelona
Kimberley Ovitz
Jen Kao
RAD by Rad Hourani
Jeremy Scott
Odyn Vovk
Todd Lynn
Jean Paul Gaultier

= 12 


Emilia Skuza
Aquascutum
Antonio Berardi
Mary Karantzou
Amanda Wakeley
Emelia Wickstead

Junya Watanabe
Gaspard Yurkievich
Cacharal
Arzu Kaprol
Aganovich

= 10 

Alice Burdeu
Honor
Timo Weiland
Chado Ralph Rucci
Giles
Emporio Armani (closed)
Giorgio Armani
Damir Doma
Manish Arora
Philipp Plein (closed)

= 9 


Melissa ‘MJ’ Johannsen
Charlotte Ronson
Rodarte
Denis Basso
Marchesa                                            
Mandy Coon
Tracy Reese
Creatures of the Wild
Yoana Baraschi

= 8

Bambi Northwood-Blyth
Jill Stuart
Diesel Black Gold
Topshop Unique
Giles
Thierry Mugler
Vionnet
Chanel

= 7

Emily Wake
Timo Weiland
Jeremy Scott
Vivienne Westwood
Holly Fulton
Roksanda Illincic
Ashley Isham
Louise Amstrup

= 7


Tallulah Morton
Ruffian
Betsey Johnson
Cushnie et Ochs
Badgley Mischka
Jean Paul Gaultier
Vivienne Westwood

= 6

Amanda Ware
Wes Gordon
Timo Weiland
Woolrich
Chado Ralph Rucci
3.1 Phillip Lim
L’Wren Scott

= 6

Lauren Brown
Rebecca Taylor
Chado Ralph Rucci
Topshop Unique
Giles
Gucci
Guy Laroche

= 6

Sarah Chuot
Organic by John Patrick
Wes Gordon
Betsey Johnson
Rachel Antonoff
Stephen Burrows

= 5

Chantal Croccolo
Bensoni
Trias
ThreeAsFour
Suno

= 4

Elyse Taylor
Lela Rose
Nanette Lepore
Tory Burch

= 3

Ruby Jean Wilson
Theyskens’ Theory (exclusive)
Giles
Yves Saint Laurent (opened/exclusive)

= 3

Mallory Jansen
Kate Spade
Althea Harper

= 2

Rose Smith
Fendi (exclusive)
Chanel (exclusive)

= 2

Lydia Willemina Collins
Givenchy (exclusive)

= 1

Jack Vanderhart
Calvin Klein Collection (exclusive)                      

= 1

Jessica Hart
Matthew Williamson (exclusive)

= 1

Miranda Kerr
Balenciaga

= 1

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