Showing posts with label FW1112. Show all posts
Showing posts with label FW1112. Show all posts

Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Action Jackson

johan sandberg via models.com

So the Spring/Summer 2012 shows kick off in New York overnight. As anticipated, a contingent of antipodian models is in situ, preparing to sink its teeth into the season. Some are international runway vets, others newbies, eager for a blockbuster first season. After turning down one blue chip European brand for two recent shoots and planning to wait until January to head offshore, Penrith’s own Krystal Glynn has had a change of heart and is in New York now. Stand by to see just where she pops up over the next four weeks. Ditto 17 year-old Brisbanite Nicole Pollard. Both Glynn and Pollard have been nominated by influential New York casting director Michelle Lee as two of Lee's top 12 new girls to watch for the season. Joining this burgeoning Aussie/Kiwi model posse is Jade Jackson from Melbourne. Modelling for one year, the 20 year old former nursing student, who is repped by Viviens in Australia and One Management in New York, was so under the radar in February this year, she managed to walk in 10 Fall/Winter 2011/2012 shows, including Richard Nicoll, Jaeger and Haider Ackermann, unbeknownst to most Australian modelwatchers (including frockwriter).

Jackson then caught the eye of H&M and Terry Richardson, who cast her in the fast fashion chain’s Fall/Winter 2011/2012 campaign. Jackson co-stars opposite no less than Freja Beha Erichsen and Anja Rubik, who are ranked the world numbers two and three respectively by models.com – which reckons Jackson is going into the SS12 season with “most wanted status”

The H&M campaign is currently up on billboards in New York. Here's a video:



Thursday, 10 March 2011

Emily Baker, the girl who would be queen

animated gif maker


After an unknown 17 year-old Kiwi called Emily Baker emerged at New York Fashion Week, we mentioned that New Zealand had a potential new superstar on its hands. Modelling for just six months, Baker, who hails from Matamata on NZ's north island, certainly grabbed the attention of New York casting directors, who placed her in the week's top shows. Not to mention that of modelling authority models.com, which makes a Top 10 New Faces list every season and dedicated its first slot for Fall/Winter 2011/2012 to Baker. At the conclusion of the season, in which she walked 60 shows, including almost every major name, some believe Baker could be fashion's Next Big Thing. Here's what MDC's editorial director Wayne Sterling told frockwriter, regarding this season's rush of Australasian models - with downunder, according to Sterling, emerging as a top 3 casting market after Russia and Holland. Noted Sterling, "As an editor though I think a great model transcends any trend. My training is not to fixate on a group of girls but to home in on an extraordinary new face with long distance potential. For me the girl poised to nab everything is Emily Baker. In the modeling sweepstakes she is THE sensation. There is a reason why she nabbed the first Top 10 newcomer slot. She is... rare, rare rare".

all images: style.com FW1112 collections
1/ marc jacobs
2/ valentino
3/ céline
4/ miu miu
5/ prada
6/ versace
7/ balenciaga
8/ calvin klein
9/ fendi
10/ chanel

Gumleaf runway mafia

animated gif maker
chanel FW1112/style.com
So another ready-to-wear season bites the dust. Below are, to the best of frockwriter's knowledge, the final show tallies for Australian models on the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 runways. All 27 of them. As already mentioned, at least 18 Australians walked at New York Fashion Week last month, with others joining the circuit in London and Milan. And what a fascinating season it has been. A very clear vanguard of five names emerged. No surprise of course that even though she missed the New York leg, Abbey Lee Kershaw walked in 24 of the season's biggest shows. In her third show season, Julia Nobis, who did the entire circuit, wound up with 50 top shows under her belt. Not far behind her were Dempsey Stewart and Codie Young, in their first international seasons, with an impressive 42 and 39 shows respectively. Ajak Deng walked in 25 shows.

Behind them, a slew of other Australian models scoring a smaller volume of nevertheless highly prestigious shows, many of them under an exclusive arrangement: Miranda Kerr at Balenciaga; Jessica Hart at Matthew Williamson; Lydia Willemina Collins at Givenchy; Ruby Jean Wilson at Yves Saint Laurent (among others); Rose Smith at Fendi and Chanel; Jack Vanderhart at Calvin Klein Collection; Bambi Northwood-Blyth at Chanel (among others). Andrej Pejic continued to make headlines wherever he went and great to see Myf Shepherd make such a confident return, 18 months after her last show season.

On numerous occasions, designers cast multiple Australians in the same show - at times, amusingly, even dispatching them onto the runway in consecutive order.

Chanel cast five Australians (above: Kershaw, Nobis, Young, Stewart and Northwood-Blyth) and Giles Deacon, eight (below: Nobis, Deng, Young, Stewart, Wilson, Northwood-Blyth, Alice Burdeu and Lauren Brown). While Chloe, Dries van Noten and Marc Jacobs all cast Nobis, Stewart and Young. 

Not forgetting the extraordinary success of New Zealand's Emily Baker - who walked in 60 shows in her first season, undoubtedly making her one of the top runway girls of FW1112 - and Jessica Clarke, the talent continues to rise from downunder.

"Clearly the modeling industry has fixated on Australia and New Zealand as an
incredible new source for emerging faces" Wayne Sterling, the co-founder and editorial director of online modelling authority models.com - the so-called 'NASDAQ of the modelling business' - told frockwriter. "The results of great scouting speak for themselves and now Down Under stands as a Top 3 scouting resource alongside Holland and Russia".


make avatar
giles deacon FW1112/style.com



Julia Nobis
Richard Chai
Tadashi Shoji
Rag & Bone
Jill Stuart
Edun
Alexander Wang
Victoria Beckham
Thakoon
Marc Jacobs
Narciso Rodriguez
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Diesel Black Gold
Vera Wang    
Ports 1961
Michael Kors
3.1 Phillip Lim
Proenza Schouler
Isaac Mizrahi
Topshop Unique
Giles
Francesco Scognamiglio
No 21
Sportmax
Anteprima
Gianfranco Ferre
Les Copains
Iceberg
Aquilano.Rimondi
Versus
Missoni
Lorella Signorino Atelier
Roberto Cavalli
Gabriele Colangelo (closed)
Balenciaga
Undercover
Nina Ricci
Dries van Noten
Rick Owens
Sharon Wauchob
Yohji Yamamoto
Loewe
Celine
Kenzo
Emanuel Ungaro
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Chanel
Alexander McQueen

Louis Vuitton
Miu Miu

= 50

Dempsey Stewart
Richard Chai (opened)
United Bamboo
Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Preen
Diane von Furstenberg
Cynthia Steffe
Karen Walker (closed)
3.1 Phillip Lim

Ports 1961
sass & bide (closed)
House of Holland
Kinder Aggugini (opened)
Richard Nicoll
Acne
Topshop Unique
Burberry
Giles
Prada

Daks
Gabriele Colangelo
Anteprima
Antonio Marras
Aquilano.Rimondi
Versus
Marni
Roberto Cavalli
Thierry Mugler
Gareth Pugh
Dries van Noten
Barbara Bui
Ann Demeulemeester
Pedro Lourenco
Loewe (opened)
Cacharel
Andrew Gn
Emanuel Ungaro
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Giambattista Valli
Shiatzy Chen
Louis Vuitton

= 42

Codie Young
Wayne (opened, closed)
Richard Chai
Peter Som
Band of Outsiders
Thakoon
Marc Jacobs
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Hexa by Kuho
Rodarte
Halston
Milly by Michelle Smith
Calvin Klein
Kinder Aggugini
Acne
Topshop Unique
Erdem
Giles
Julien Macdonald
Ermanno Scervino
Anteprima
Antonio Marras
Aquilano.Rimondi
Moschino Cheap & Chic

Roberto Cavalli
Marni (opened)
Rue du Mail
Dries van Noten
Rick Owens
Lanvin
Cacharel
Sonia Rykiel
Akris
Costume National
Kenzo
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Giambattista Valli
Chanel
Shiatzy Chen

= 39

Ajak Deng
Richard Chai
Nicole Miller
G-Star
Libertine
Preen
Carolina Herrera                            
Jen Kao (opened)
Tibi
Reed Krakoff
Issa
Matthew Williamson
Acne
TopShop Unique (closed)
Todd Lynn
Michael van der Ham
Peter Pilotto
Giles
Ermanno Scervino
Thierry Mugler
Filippe Oliveira Baptista
Zac Posen
Lanvin
Givenchy
Hermes
Stella McCartney

= 25


Abbey Lee Kershaw
Issa London (opened)
John Rocha (opened, closed)
Burberry
Julien Macdonald
Gucci
Ermanno Scervino
Fendi
Bottega Veneta
Versace (opened)
Gianfranco Ferre
Etro (closed)
Salvatore Ferragamo
Dolce e Gabbana
Emilio Pucci
Bottega Veneta
Balmain
Isabel Marant
Viktor & Rolf
Stella McCartney
Yves Saint Laurent
Chanel
Paul & Joe (closed)
Miu Miu
Elie Saab

= 24


Annaleise Smith
Costello Tagliapietra (opened)
Cushnie et Ochs
Daniel Vosovic
Douglas Hannant
Naeem Khan
Odd Molly
Theyskens' Theory
Venexiana
Zang Toi
Betsey Johnson
Yoanna Baraschi
Pamela Love
Risto Bimbiloski
Pamela Roland
Song Jung Wan

= 15

Myf Shepherd
Angelo Marani
Sportmax
DSquared2
Anne Valérie Hash
Anthony Vaccarello
Gaspard Yurkievich (opened)
AV Vandervorst (opened)
Sonia Rykiel
Vivienne Westwood
Kenzo
Celine
Shiatzy Chen

= 12

Andrej Pejic
NAHM
Robert Geller
Richard Chai
Yoana Baraschi
Custo Barcelona
Kimberley Ovitz
Jen Kao
RAD by Rad Hourani
Jeremy Scott
Odyn Vovk
Todd Lynn
Jean Paul Gaultier

= 12 


Emilia Skuza
Aquascutum
Antonio Berardi
Mary Karantzou
Amanda Wakeley
Emelia Wickstead

Junya Watanabe
Gaspard Yurkievich
Cacharal
Arzu Kaprol
Aganovich

= 10 

Alice Burdeu
Honor
Timo Weiland
Chado Ralph Rucci
Giles
Emporio Armani (closed)
Giorgio Armani
Damir Doma
Manish Arora
Philipp Plein (closed)

= 9 


Melissa ‘MJ’ Johannsen
Charlotte Ronson
Rodarte
Denis Basso
Marchesa                                            
Mandy Coon
Tracy Reese
Creatures of the Wild
Yoana Baraschi

= 8

Bambi Northwood-Blyth
Jill Stuart
Diesel Black Gold
Topshop Unique
Giles
Thierry Mugler
Vionnet
Chanel

= 7

Emily Wake
Timo Weiland
Jeremy Scott
Vivienne Westwood
Holly Fulton
Roksanda Illincic
Ashley Isham
Louise Amstrup

= 7


Tallulah Morton
Ruffian
Betsey Johnson
Cushnie et Ochs
Badgley Mischka
Jean Paul Gaultier
Vivienne Westwood

= 6

Amanda Ware
Wes Gordon
Timo Weiland
Woolrich
Chado Ralph Rucci
3.1 Phillip Lim
L’Wren Scott

= 6

Lauren Brown
Rebecca Taylor
Chado Ralph Rucci
Topshop Unique
Giles
Gucci
Guy Laroche

= 6

Sarah Chuot
Organic by John Patrick
Wes Gordon
Betsey Johnson
Rachel Antonoff
Stephen Burrows

= 5

Chantal Croccolo
Bensoni
Trias
ThreeAsFour
Suno

= 4

Elyse Taylor
Lela Rose
Nanette Lepore
Tory Burch

= 3

Ruby Jean Wilson
Theyskens’ Theory (exclusive)
Giles
Yves Saint Laurent (opened/exclusive)

= 3

Mallory Jansen
Kate Spade
Althea Harper

= 2

Rose Smith
Fendi (exclusive)
Chanel (exclusive)

= 2

Lydia Willemina Collins
Givenchy (exclusive)

= 1

Jack Vanderhart
Calvin Klein Collection (exclusive)                      

= 1

Jessica Hart
Matthew Williamson (exclusive)

= 1

Miranda Kerr
Balenciaga

= 1

Monday, 7 March 2011

Aussie exclusive number two: Ruby Jean Wilson opens Yves Saint Laurent

yves saint laurent FW1112 backstage/sonny vandevelde
Twenty-four hours after unknown Sydney model Lydia Willemina Collins made an exclusive appearance at the Givenchy show at Paris Fashion Week, yet another Australian model has popped up on the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 radar at an equally prestigious French fashion show and also as an exclusive: Yves Saint Laurent. Scottish-born, UK-raised but now Terrigal, NSW-based 16 year-old Ruby Jean Wilson has only been seen twice so far over the past month - at Olivier Theysken's Theory show in New York, also on exclusive and at the Giles Deacon show at London Fashion Week. But Wilson didn't just walk in the Yves Saint Laurent show, she opened it (below) and she was flanked by some very big modelling names, including Abbey Lee Kershaw, the only other Australian in the show. What exactly is an "exclusive" show option? It means that the model may not appear in any other shows in that city prior to the exclusive - and more often than not, they may not appear anywhere else that season prior to being unveiled. With two other new antipodian faces, Codie Young and Dempsey Stewart, grabbing nearly 40 shows each in their first international season - including a slew of the most highly coveted designer name shows, such as Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Lanvin - you have to wonder which is the best strategy. 

Repped by Priscillas in Sydney, Wilson walked in 12 shows at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week last May and then did a mere handful of lowkey shows at New York Fashion Week four months later.  

With hundreds of other models walking every international show season, it is extremely difficult to be noticed. 

Not only turning up in a bluechip show such as YSL, but opening it, however, tends to get the industry's attention. 


yves saint laurent FW1112 backstage/sonny vandevelde
yves saint laurent FW1112/nowfashion.com

Sunday, 6 March 2011

From a tattoo parlour to a Givenchy exclusive - Lydia Willemina Collins

givenchy FW1112/getty via daylife

There are three days to go in the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show season. So far, frockwriter estimates that 24 Australians have walked its runways, several among them clocking up over 30 shows apiece from New York to Paris - and one (Julia Nobis), over 40. We've seen circuit veterans, circuit virgins and several models who have returned to the runways after taking a break - in Miranda Kerr's case at Balenciaga, two months after giving birth. But as the arrival of Lydia Willemina Collins overnight at the prestigious Givenchy show attests, it's not too late to throw a wild card into the ring. Modelling for a month, the 18 year-old Sydneysider - who is working under her two first names - was originally scouted three years ago by Work Agency's Helena Vitolins, working in her mother's tattoo parlour. "But she wasn’t ready" reports Vitolins from Paris. "I just waited for the right time. We got her passport on Thursday, flew her out on Saturday. All of this happened very quickly. We’re going to New York tomorrow, she has some major, major holds and some major, major appointments". The Givenchy exclusive was Collins' second job, after this lookbook for Australian label Scanlan & Theodore, shot by Max Doyle. A natural brunette (see below, from a February 3 post on models.com), her hair was dyed red by Givenchy's hair stylist Luigi Murenu specifically for the show. 

As for the extraordinary popularity of Australian models at the moment, Vitolins believes their down-to-earth attitude could be a contributing factor. 

"They’re cool, they're honest, they’re direct, they’re smart... I think that’s quite unique to Australian girls" notes Vitolins, adding that in the case of Collins, "If she wasn't modelling, she'd be a motor mechanic". 

Make than a motor mechanic on the Grand Prix circuit. 
 


work agency via models.com




Saturday, 5 March 2011

Myf Shepherd is back in the game

david jones AW11 backstage

Myf Shepherd was the new Australian modelling supernova of 2008. Scouted in February that year and famously snubbed by the producers of Australia’s Next Top Model, the 17 year-old went on to walk in more shows than any other model during her first Australian Fashion Week in May 2008, before heading off to the northern hemisphere show circuit four months later and walking in 51 shows in her first international season. The next season she walked in 62. Then followed campaigns for Gucci, Sonia Rykiel, Miu Miu and others. By September 2009, however, something was up. Following a blitz of publicity over her personal life – and an apparent weight gain - Shepherd was much less high profile during the Spring/Summer 2010 show season. Then came the announcement she would be taking a break from modelling to study set design at the University of NSW’s College of Fine Arts. In fact, as Shepherd reveals in this short interview that frockwriter recorded backstage at last month’s David Jones show in Sydney, she didn’t just intend to take a break from the business – she decided to quit it altogether. 

Fortunately for Shepherd’s fans, however, one year on she is back in the game.

Currently in Paris, she is in the midst of her first international show season in eighteen months. And what a confident re-entry she is making. 

Shepherd only joined the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 season in Milan, but with five days still to go, she has already walked in seven shows, alongside some of the biggest names in the modelling business: Angelo Marani, Sportmax, DSquared2, Anne Valérie Hash, Anthony Vaccarello, Gaspard Yurkievich and AV Vandervorst – opening the two latter shows. Update 07/03: Add to this list Sonia Rykiel, Vivienne Westwood, Kenzo and Céline.


sportmax FW11/12/style.com


Frockwriter: So how is the course going?
Myf Shepherd: Really good. I’m really enjoying it.

FW: Stage design?
MS: Well it’s just a design course. The first year pretty much they give you a taste of everything. And then you get to choose. You narrow it down each year. the second year you have three kind of main streams that you follow and then you get through and then you get two and you do one for the final year.

FW: So you’ve done one year. How many years is it?
MS: It’s four years. But I’m going to defer the next year and go back overseas.

FW: You had such an incredible start, really, didn’t you? You did all those shows at RAFW, then went straight to the OS shows and hit the ground running. I can imagine it was a bit insane.
MS: Pretty much. Yeah, well I was doing Year 12 at the same time so that was really intense, because it was like a fulltime job and fulltime school.
  
FW: So you wanted to take a break because it was a bit too much?
MS:  I wasn’t really ready for it. I don’t think I really appreciated it either. And now I miss it a lot and so I can see all of the good things that I had before and I want to go back.

FW: Were you at all worried that in stepping out of it, you might miss your chance? Modelling is an intensely competitive business and some people talk about striking while the iron’s hot, having the right look at the right moment etc…
MS: I don’t know. I’m really young and it’s not the end of the world if I don’t make it again or anything.

FW: Well you are stepping back into it now. But when you left, were you worried that it might be difficult getting back in?
MS: I didn’t want to get back in when I stopped. That’s why I got piercings and tattoos.

FW: You were rebelling against….the fashion industry?
MS: Yep. [It was like saying] It’s my face and I can do what I want to it.

FW: But there are lots of models with piercings and tattoos aren't there?
MS: Not eyebrow piercings.

FW: I mean Abbey has lots of piercings and tattoos. So does Catherine McNeil. So what have you done with those today – taken them out?
MS: Oh it’s hidden by my hair [lifts fringe].
  
FW: I guess it is a very regimented life.
MS: Yeah, there are a lot of people who control your appearance

FW: So you are going back tomorrow [Thursday]. What’s the plan?
MS: I’m flying tomorrow to Paris and then I’ve got a few direct bookings in Paris. I don’t know what they are. And then I’m going to go to Milan and do shows and go to Paris and do shows and then go where I’m needed.

FW: Are you looking forward to going back onto the frontline?
MS: Yeah, I’m looking forward to it. I’ve missed it. I’ve been Facebook-stalking all of my friends who are at the New York shows at the moment and getting jealous. 

AF vandervorst FW1112/style.com


FW: So what’s been the best thing about the year off?
MF: I had an amazing year. I just had so much fun being a regular person and not a model.

FW: Did you find that people recognised you?
MS: No, not really. Not in Sydney. I don’t really ever get that in Sydney. In New York, all the time and especially anywhere during Fashion Week, because everyone’s kind of  on the lookout for models. But no, I don’t really get it in Sydney. There was one time at a café where I had a really strange experience, where a woman came over and asked my friend while I was in the bathroom, if I was Myf Shepherd. And my friend was like, ‘No, it’s not. Leave her alone’. And then the woman was like, ‘No, I know who that is – that’s Myf Shepherd. I’m going to wait here and talk to her when she comes back out of the bathroom’.   

FW: And so did she meet you?
MS: No my friend scared her off!

FW: Obviously many fashion blogs - including obviously this one - monitor what models do and talk them up. Often the mainstream press then pick the stories up. Does all the hype get a bit much when you’re starting out?
MS: If you read it, I guess. I don’t know. I think I was just a bundle of hype.

FW: A bundle of hype?
MS: I think that hype entirely just can really influence someone’s career.

FW: Well, modelling is like the stock market...
MS: Yeah. So... I feel like I had a lot of good hype when I started and that definitely helped me.

FW: How tough is the weight issue? Obviously it affects every model at that elite level. It must be really difficult.
MS: It is hard that you’ve got to look a certain way. And I’m still healthy. I went like... I stopped caring at all when I decided that I was going to take time off. Or when I decided that I was going to quit. And then when I decided that I wanted to start back up again I started watching what I was eating and exercising more. But it wasn’t at all a massive lifestyle change. It was all about mindset.

FW: So you actually quit?
MS: Yeah. I just wanted to go to uni. 

FW: When you finish your course, what are the plans then?
MS: I do want to do set design, or something like that. I would love to do set design for fashion shows. I find that so interesting. They have some amazing things over in Europe. 

FW: And there are some great production companies.
MS: On that Gucci campaign that I did I was talking to the set designer for an entire day. That was kind of around the time that I decided I was going to apply for uni. 

dsquared2 FW1112/style.com


FW: What did you miss most about modelling?
MS: I don’t know, there are lots of things. I miss transforming, that’s probably the major thing. 

FW: You mean with the photoshoots, the hair and makeup etc…
MS: Yes. 

FW: What was the highlight?
MS: There were way too many good times.

FW: Favourite shoot, favourite photographer?
MS: I have too many… I’ve got too many friends who are photographers and I don’t want to offend anyone by saying. 

FW: But that’s what you miss the most – the theatrical side?
MS: Yeah, I really, really enjoy becoming a character. 

FW: For any young girls in your position at RAFW, who have never been outside Australia and who all of a sudden get picked up and thrown into it like you were, what’s your advice to them?
MS: [And become] the next big thing? 

FW: Yes – having been through it all, what’s your advice... having stepped out of it to get some perspective and going back into it now?
MS: Don’t take it too seriously.