Robyn Lawley strikes again - in Vogue Australia's first ever plus size fashion shoot

max doyle for vogue australia september 2011

On the occasion of her groundbreaking recent cover of Vogue Italia, alongside two other plus-sized models, we mentioned that Australia’s Robyn Lawley had another high fashion coup up her sleeve, just shot in Australia with Max Doyle. Frockwriter can reveal that that shoot is in fact a 10-page designer fashion editorial called 'Belle Curve' in the September edition of Vogue Australia, which is out on August 3rd. Subscriber copies landed today (thanks to our tipster who emailed the shots in). The editorial is accompanied by a double-page interview with Lawley. According to Kirstie Clements' editor's letter, this is the first time in Vogue Australia's 52-year history that the magazine has shot a plus-sized model for a fashion editorial. Hot on the heels of Lawley’s Vogue Italia cover and her Elle France cover in April, 2011 is turning out to be a banner year for Lawley, Bonner and the plus size-specialist modelling industry. 

Clements continues in her editor's letter:

“This is the first time Vogue Australia has shot a larger model and of course now that we have done it, I ask myself why we didn’t do it sooner. But that’s because Robyn is especially gorgeous. I went to the shoot to meet her and was transfixed by her beauty and poise. She is a truly super duper model. When a plus size model first turns up to the studio, she may be an anomaly to a team normally used to working with size 6’s, but once photographer Max Doyle started shooting Robyn, we quickly readjusted our preconceived notions of beauty. She doesn’t actually look plus size to me at all now. I said to a colleague on set later that day, “And men like curves don’t they?” He looked at me like I was an idiot. “Yes Kirsty, we certainly do” was his laconic reply. It’s an interesting conversation – the world of high fashion and fuller-figured women. One that needs to be continued”.

According to Lawley's Australian agent, Chelsea Bonner, the director of plus size-specialist agency Bella Model Management, the Vogue Australia editorial is an even sweeter victory than the Vogue Italia cover. 

“The amazing thing about the Vogue Australia shoot is that they actually dressed her - went out and found these beautiful designer garments to wear” Bonner told frockwriter. “Which just proves the point that there is clothing available for plus size models to wear in high fashion, it just takes a little bit of extra effort to find them. Vogue Australia went to that effort and the results are incredible”.

Of the rollercoaster media ride that ensued in the wake of the Italian cover, Bonner adds, “It went viral worldwide, has been commented on in I don’t know how many hundreds of magazines, blog sites and newspapers. And it reflects, I think, definitely the shift in consumers. Women want to see more realistic-sized models in magazines. They’re screaming for it. The response that we had from Italian Vogue was absolutely out of control. But my personal opinion is that Australian Vogue has blown Italian Vogue out of the water because of the fact that it is a true fashion editorial - rather than having curvy girls in lingerie, like they normally do. It’s not just having a token plus size model. It’s a true fashion editorial”.  

photographer: max doyle
fashion editor: meg gray
fashion assistant: megha kapoor
makeup: justine purdue
hair: renya xydis

Rainbow warrior

justin edward john smith

With the Spring/Summer 2012 show season kicking off in New York on September 8, we know what that means: yet more antipodean models trying their luck on the international  circuit. Beyond gender-bender extraordinaire Andrej Pejic and newcomers such as Jack Vanderhart, however, we don’t often hear that much about the men. Twenty-one Indigenous Australian Jake Gordon hopes to change this. Modelling for two years, Gordon was rather low-profile on the runways of the 2010 and 2011 editions of Australian Fashion Week. His editorial work in Australia embraces GQ, Cream and Oyster and campaigns/lookbooks includes clients such as Ksubi, Bassike, Roc Eyewear, Workshop Denim and Ben Sherman. Just signed to New York’s Major Model Management (his mother agent is Sydney's Chic Management), with a mention on models.com, Gordon leaves for NY on August 14th, in time for New York Fashion Week castings. Perth-based photographer Justin Edward John Smith recently contacted Gordon with a view to doing a special photoshoot. Considering that Smith’s shots of Gemma Ward for Mark magazine helped ignite her modelling career, Gordon jumped at the opportunity. Smith flew him to Perth and the result is this 41-page portfolio, below – a frockwriter exclusive (which is best viewed on the blog).

Born in Newcastle to an Aboriginal mother and an English/Italian father, Gordon grew up in Brewarrina, in outback NSW.

His Aboriginal name is Yuluwirri Gabinya – "Yulu" for short, as used by Gordon’s family and close friends.

“Yuluwirri means 'rainbow' and Gabinya means 'boy'... I will hopefully be using it more frequently on the modelling scene when overseas to separate me from other Jakes” he told frockwriter.

To travel to New York, Gordon will be taking a little time off from his day job of the past three years - contract manager for the federal government’s Indigenous Employment Program. 

Along with fellow Indigenous Australian model Samantha Harris, he is also an ambassador for the Australian chapter of the One Laptop Per Child charity.

Gordon hopes to return to Indigenous community outreach in some capacity at some stage.

“I just want to do the best I can and the best I can is being a really awesome role model - and not just being a model who’s taking it for granted” says Gordon. “You’ve pretty much got five minutes to make as much money as you possibly can and then move on to the next thing.

“I’m hoping to be more involved with my charity when I come back. And I hope to do further training, going into communities and learning about nutrition...... There’s this whole questioning my mortality at quite a young age. My mum’s DNA compared to my dad’s DNA is really, really different. My life expectancy due to my genetic makeup is still expected to be less than my non indigenous friends”.

Bath party: Marcs' five faces of Spring/Summer 2011/2012

Australian sportswear brand Marcs has been producing some cool advertising campaigns of late. Nabbing new Australian modelling superstar Julia Nobis was a good start of course. Nobis co-starred in the Spring/Summer 2010/2011 and Autumn/Winter 2011 campaigns with Broed Dilleward and Nick Hinman, respectively. Here is a first look at the SS1112 campaign, for which Marcs' creative director Rachel Allen has upped the ante with not two but five rising Australian stars: Chic's Rachel Rutt and Nicole Pollard, Viviens' Rosie Tupper, Priscillas' Andy Smith and EMG Models' Jack Vanderhart (who made his international debut at New York Fashion Week in February, with a Calvin Klein exclusive). Shot by Steven Chee, the campaign also showcases one of Australia's most beautiful sea baths: the heritage-listed Wylies Baths in Sydney's Coogee.

creative director: rachel allen
photographer: steven chee
art director: nikki hillier
stylist: kim payne
hair: max may
makeup: victoria barron


all images supplied exclusively to frockwriter by MARCS

Krystal Glynn for Zambesi Spring/Summer 2011/2012, designers line up for NZFW

We mentioned that new Australian face Krystal Glynn had recently shot the Spring/Summer 2011/2012 advertising campaign for New Zealand brand Zambesi. Above and below is a first look at the campaign, which stars Glynn alongside Kiwis Josh Skelton and David Kemp and was lensed by Marissa Findlay (makeup by Amber D for MAC, hair by Jason Chong Li for Stephen Marr). Expect to see Glynn front and centre at Zambesi's runway show at the upcoming New Zealand Fashion Week, which runs from August 29th to September 2nd at brand new digs, the Viaduct Events Centre. Zambesi is one of nearly 60 brands that NZFW organisers announced earlier this week would be joining their Autumn/Winter 2012 showcase. Other headliners: World (which frockwriter hears is closing the event), Trelise Cooper, Helen Cherry and Workshop Denim, Jimmy D, Stolen Girlfriends Club and Miranda Brown. Solo debuts include newcomers Celine Rita, Ingrid Starnes and Whiri. Hats off to the resilience of two Christchurch-based labels that are joining this year's lineup: the very well-established luxury eco label Untouched World and newbie MisterR, whose Christchurch store was destroyed during February 22nd's devastating earthquake which claimed 182 lives.  

photography: marissa findlay
hair: jason ching li for stephen marr
makeup: amber D for MAC


all images: supplied to frockwriter by zambesi

Mezi (fashion) plate: Anja Konstantinova dances around model protocol

patrick mcgreal for mezi jewellery

Another day, another big buzz new model, it seems, is springboarded out of the Australasian market. Twenty year-old Anja Konstantinova is not, however, just another sultry, sun-kissed Aussie blonde. Russian-born, Konstantinova has spent half her life downunder, moving here in 2001 with her prima ballerina mother Irina Konstantinova and father Sergei Konstantinov, both former principal dancers with the Kirov Ballet who now teach at The Australian Ballet School. Signed to Sydney agency Priscilla's six months ago, Konstantinova did just two shows at May's Australian Fashion Week (Ellery and Friend of Mine). But she has obviously caught the industry's eye. Since then, according to Priscilla's, she has shot for Vogue and GQ Australia, Oyster (five stories), Grazia (four stories), Marie Claire, No, Pages Online, Poster magazine, a Ksubi calendar, an Oroton catalogue and the Spring/Summer 2011/2012 campaign for rising Sydney jewellery brand Mezi. Above and below is a first look at the Mezi campaign shot by Patrick McGreal.

Repped by Viva in Paris, Marilyn in New York and Models One in London, the international market is also beckoning.

Last month Konstantinova flew to Paris to be shot for Jalouse magazine. In the US she has already shot campaigns for Urban Outfitters and Wildfox Couture, photographed by, respectively, Charlie Engman and Mark 'The Cobrasnake' Hunter.

All the hallmarks of a very promising modelling career, on which Konstantinova hopes to build over the next three and a half months in New York and Europe.

There's just one catch. Apart from her exotic Russian and ballet ancestry, there is one other factor which marks Konstantinova apart from the rest of the Australian model pack - make that the model pack, period.

She is only five foot four.

In an industry that has traditionally shut its doors to those under five ten, what's her secret? 

"She’s extraordinary and her personality is amazing, I think that that makes a big difference" says Priscilla's agent, Lizzie Leighton-Clark. "And she’s so well in proportion as well. She’s got such a great personality, such a great look, I don't think it matters".

The photographic studio is of course very different to the runway, where models tend to be of uniform height.

At 5'7" Kate Moss was one famous exception to the industry standard. Another Priscilla's protegée, Bambi Northwood-Blyth, also 5'7", has recently managed considerable success on the international runway circuit, booking prestigious shows such as Chanel and Balenciaga.

With the Spring/Summer 2012 show season just two months away, what realistic chance does the even more petite Konstantinova have on the international circuit? 

Notes Leighton-Clark, "I’m not sure about the shows, but I have no doubt that she’s going to be a major success. She might get one or two amazing shows. I think that everyone’s bored of the norm and looking for something a bit different".

photography: patrick mcgreal
hair and makeup: max may

all images supplied exclusively to frockwriter by mezi jewellery

Krystal method

No surprise that Krystal Glynn has found herself much in demand over the past three months. The 16 year-old from Sydney's Penrith - who frockwriter first profiled in April, a week after she was scouted on Bondi Beach - popped up in 10 shows at Australian Fashion Week in May (including Friend of Mine). In the interim Glynn has been shooting back-to-back for Australasian fashion brands: Spring/Summer 2011/2012 campaigns for Saba, Country Road, Zambesi, General Pants, Valley Girl and One Teaspoon and lookbooks for Akira Isogawa and Michael Lo Sordo. Above and below: a first look at the Michael Lo Sordo SS1112 images (once again, an alert to RSS subscribers: you will need to head to the blog to view the photogallery). That's in addition to editorial shoots for Australian mags Madison, Grazia, Cleo, Russh (two editorials) and Oyster (four editorials). Busy, busy girl. 

There are two quite incredible omissions from this list. And they are two Resort 2012 gigs for one of the world's blue chip fashion brands for which, according to Glynn's mother agent, Lincoln Ferguson at Sydney's The Agency Models, Glynn was not merely optioned, but in fact booked. 

We are not at liberty to divulge either the name of the brand or the reasons why we don't believe this is just agency hype. Update: The brand she turned down was Prada.   

What on earth prompted Glynn's agents (including New York's DNA) to turn the offers down? 

Ferguson told frockwriter, "Due to the short length of time that Krystal's career has been going, we decided that we would take our time with launching her overseas. Krystal will be going to New York in January". 
  

photographer: holly blake at RP represents

stylist: marina afonina

hair and makeup: victoria baron at RP represents

shoes: michael lo sordo for peeptoe

printing and design: richard alma at grin creative

all images supplied exclusively to frockwriter by michael lo sordo

First look: Jacquetta Wheeler for Jigsaw Australia Spring 2011

Anthony Cuthbertson is a busy guy. Not only is the Brit import the new creative director of Australian sportswear brand David Lawrence, as it emerges he is also the creative director of Jigsaw Australia (which, like David Lawrence, is owned by the Sydney-based M Webster Holdings). The British high street brand celebrates its 20th anniversary downunder with the upcoming ‘Cool Britannia’-inspired Spring/Summer 2011/2012 collection of smart coats and sweet dresses, which launches in store at the end of this month and includes a capsule collection of swimwear, dresses, tops and skirts in Liberty of London’s iconic micro florals. To mark the occasion, Cuthbertson cast English rose Jacquetta Wheeler as the face of Jigsaw’s Max Doyle-lensed Spring 2011 campaign. Spotted by Mario Testino at age 16 in 1998 and named “model of the millennium” by The Face magazine in 1999, Wheeler's 13-year career has embraced advertising campaigns for the biggest names in the fashion business, including Gucci, Calvin Klein, Givenchy, Prada, Valentino, Ralph Lauren and Roberto Cavalli. 

Previous Jigsaw Australia faces have included Jandra Dziaugyte, Alice Rausch and, last season, Australia’s upwardly mobile Rosemary Smith - who walked in the Chanel haute couture show in Paris on Tuesday, her third Chanel runway show since March after the French luxury brand's Ready-to-Wear and Resort shows.

all images: supplied exclusively to frockwriter by jigsaw australia

creative director: anthony cuthbertson
art director: kasia wydrowski 

photographer: max doyle 

retoucher: samantha hawkins
 

Three is a magic number (maybe)

leoni milano

Happy Independence Day to my American readers. July 4 is also frockwriter’s birthday and today we turn three. How time flies. It seems like only yesterday that I was saying sayonara to mainstream media blogging (for smh.com.au and news.com.au) and venturing into the wild blue yonder of the indie blogosphere. What a ride it has been. And what can I say but, once again, thank you for your interest, your comments, your Tweets, your links, your trackbacks, your feedback and your shit-canning. Over exuberance of the latter at one point over the past year prompted me to finally upgrade my comments system. Couple of milestones. It took two years to reach one million page views. But just one to reach two million. What might it take to hit one million PIs per month? Certainly much more of an effort than currently goes into this blog, due to paid work commitments and other distractions (such as a family drama, which has occupied a huge amount of time over the past few months). But I’m working on it. Thanks to new advertising partner Pages Digital, the first ad campaigns have gone up. Early days of course. But baby steps. 

Thanks to Kent for his unwavering support. Thanks also to my mates. You know who you are.
 

Special thanks to the inimitable Andrej Pejic, the subject of frockwriter’s two most popular posts of the last twelve months (not to mention an in-depth current affairs profile on Seven Network’s Sunday Night program). The year’s other top posts included Pretty Babies, about the eight year-old stars of an editorial in the December edition of Vogue Paris - a post that attracted the attention of the US Christian Right and broke frockwriter’s comments record. Coincidentally, it also precipitated, by several days, the announcement of the departure of Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld. Bulgari’s Lolcats and Givenchy’s Gender Bender (about transsexual model Lea T) were other popular posts.
 

Thanks to all the photographers, designers, editors, PRs and model agents for their generosity with tips, info, access and notably first looks at images, covers and campaigns - and of course the models themselves, who occupy such a huge part of this blog.
 

Thank-you also to the other bloggers, journalists and media outlets which regularly pick up frockwriter's stories. So very much appreciated.