"Catherine McNeil is iconic for her generation" - Doll Wright

ford models

Well at least one mystery has been solved regarding Catherine McNeil - one of Australia's best-known modelling exports who has been on a bit of a self-imposed career hiatus for much of the past year and who, as it now emerges, also boasts New Zealand citizenship and travels on a Kiwi passport. The photo of McNeil that was Tweeted two days ago by Britain's Love magazine, together with the caption "Catherine McNeil is back!", was not part of any upcoming photoshoot for the magazine, but one of a handful of new digital shots of McNeil that have just been taken by McNeil's new New York management, Ford Models (curiously, the shot appears to have now been removed by Love). Here are the rest, supplied by Ford, which contacted us overnight for a little damage control, presumably not terribly happy with Timo Weiland's unfortunate Twitter shot of McNeil that we published yesterday. But while Love has yet to book her, newly-minted Ford Models agent Doll Wright tells frockwriter that McNeil has just shot 25 pages with a major photographer for a major international fashion title. 

Wright declined to comment on the Weiland shot, in which McNeil is holding a beer bottle and her NZ passport, with a cigarette dangling from her lips. Wright was also unable to clarify whether McNeil is actually an Australian citizen or merely has permanent residency here.

But Wright did stress that McNeil has been "working really hard to get herself together. She's really determined. You can see what she looks like".

“She hasn’t shot Love or worked with [editor] Katie Grand yet" added Wright. "But we’re thrilled because obviously it shows that the support is still there. At the end of the day, the industry, at the level that’s she’s at and the calibre of people she has worked with, they respect her. Catherine McNeil is iconic for her generation. As a model, she will always be remembered for that and people at the top level of this business appreciate and respect the hard work that she’s put in for them. She’s worked her ass off for this business, she’s travelled the world non stop. On the back of Gemma Ward she helped put us on the map and maybe she had a moment where she wanted to take some time out.

"Life is a rollercoaster and these girls go through so much, they’re worked to the bone. Some burn out or fade out and are never heard of again. Or they do have some fire in their belly and they come back bigger and better than ever before. And in the case of Catherine McNeil, that’s what it’s going to be”. 

McNeil and Australian-born Wright are not Ford Models' only new antipodian additions. 

Wright joined Ford a week ago after recently resigning from New York rival Elite Model Management. And she has taken a swag of Elite’s Australian highprofilers with her to Ford: Julia Nobis, Lauren Brown, Bambi Northwood-Blyth, Ruby-Jean Wilson and Emma Balfour, in addition to Canadian Kate King and American Hannah Holman.

all images: supplied to frockwriter by ford models

Lover comes back

It’s been a long time in between Lover shows at RAFW. Five years to be precise. The Black Rose Army collection, shown in May 2006, was staged in a grungy, inner-city dive. Last night’s presentation of The White Serpent SS1112 collection demonstrates that this Sydney brand with a global cult following, which celebrates its 10 year anniversary this year, has most certainly come of age. A slick, ultra-sophisticated affair staged inside the Sydney Opera House, the collection was dazzling in its simplicity. Rendered in a three note palette of ivory, black and scarlet red, the collection flirted with masculine/feminine stereotypes: ivory tuxedos and jumpsuits with ultra wide-legs and mannish, oversized jackets were layered over sheer white blouses with pie-crust collars and lace inserts, then segued into a suite of killer lace dresses. Although the lace dress is a Lover signature, these sophisticated versions said not so much Woodstock free spirit as red carpet siren and they could give Collette Dinnigan a run for her money. 

Lover’s Susien Chong and Nic Briand evidently don’t think they’re dependent on RAFW to raise their profile. Early social media adopters, who created their first fashion film in 2003, the duo has been quietly building up a loyal fan base. But good to see them back on schedule, with the discipline of pulling together a 15-minute brand statement.

The staging, a little reminiscent of Givenchy’s and McQueen's in-the-round presentations, revolved around a central video split screen, onto which was projected images of the models. 

The stellar cast included Australia’s big new runway names Julia Nobis, Lauren Brown and newcomers Ruby Jean Wilson, Rose Smith and Melissa ‘MJ’ Johannsen, who have been carving up the international runway circuit - in Johannsen’s case without, ironically, having previously set foot on any Australian runway.

Anyone interested in reading more about  Australia’s new model army should pick up a copy of this Friday’s Wish magazine inside The Australian, which has a four-page feature. Here is a teaser. 

Sabatini's It girls

On Friday morning, Sabatini hosted a breakfast at Café Sydney to celebrate 20 years in business in Australia and preview the Spring/Summer 2011/2012 collection. Of course, the third generation New Zealand knitwear company is much older than that – 58 years to be precise (in September, frockwriter visited its headquarters in Auckland). A tightly-edited presentation of just 12 strong looks, with styling by Franco Schifilliti, this was Sabatini’s best ever show. Brother and sister Margi and Tony Milich now run the business, but great to see Margi’s daughter Danielle Evans-Milich, who had her own Milich & Morton label at one point, with more of a hands-on role these days. The showpieces in Friday's capsule collection included a knockout fringed silver cocktail dress with fishtail train which, although perhaps never intended for production, will wind up, we’ll wager, photographed by magazines and on special order. In what is a signal of the calibre of models we can expect this week in Sydney, the cast included Lauren Brown and Alice Burdeu, who recently returned from the northern hemisphere show circuit. Both Brown and Burdeu are among a group of models who were launched out of Sydney’s Priscillas agency and onto the world stage by former Priscillas booker Doll Wright. Wright moved to New York three years ago to work at Priscillas’ US affiliate Elite, but has just resigned from Elite. Although she’s not saying much right now, according to industry whispers Wright is heading to cashed-up competitor Ford – which recently poached Catherine McNeil from the Next agency. And word has it that McNeil might not be the only Australian model to be nabbed by Ford once Wright touches down there. 

Summer blockbusters: Australians on the runways for SS11

Another international show season has wrapped. And as has been the case over the past seven years - since the arrival of Gemma Ward - Australian models continue to grab an increasingly large share of that runway real estate. Below is a list of all Australians on the Spring/Summer 2011 runways - updated from frockwriter's post three weeks ago, at the end of the season's first leg in New York. The list is ranked, top to bottom, by show numbers, but clearly, some shows eclipse others in prestige. Hence Abbey Lee Kershaw doesn't have the biggest show tally, but overall was booked for a higher volume of big shows. Unheard of this time last year, Julia Nobis walked in 43 shows, including some of fashion's biggest names. Ajak Deng and Lauren Brown also continued their ascent. Even Miranda Kerr, at five months pregnant, made an appearance on Balenciaga's runway. Who would have thought it possible two years ago? With Kerr recently lurching forward to the eighth position on models.com's Top 50 working models rankings - jumping seven places since we last profiled this list in July - that places three Australians in the world top 12.

And clearly, there is no shortage of new faces coming up behind them. Bambi Northwood-Blyth emerged from left of field to do 12 shows in her first international season, including blue chip names Balenciaga, Chanel and Emanuel Ungaro. 

The biggest mystery of the season was Catherine McNeil, who made what looked to be a very respectable return to the New York runways after a short hiatus, only to disappear off the radar at London Fashion Week after just one show in that city. There is as yet no word from McNeil's agency as to whether or not she may have been busy working. 

Many thanks to the model fans at TFS for keeping such close tabs on their faves, making the compilation of this list much easier. Feel free to add any details we may have missed.

Julia Nobis
Proenza Schouler (opened and closed)
Vogue's Fashion’s Night Out show
Narciso Rodriguez
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Rag & Bone
3.1 Philip Lim
Alexander Wang
Matthew Ames
Diesel Black Gold
Joseph Altuzarra 
Sass & bide (opened)
Daks
Margaret Howell
Richard Nicoll
Topshop Unique
Jonathan Saunders
Ance
Peter Pilotto
Erdem
Pringle of Scotland
Jaeger London
Burberry Prorsum 
Roberto Cavalli
Iceberg
Sportmax
Antonio Marras 
Balenciaga
Haider Ackerman
Hakaan
Sharon Wauchob (closed)
Roland Mouret
Pedro Lourenço
Gaspard Yurkievich
Rick Owens
Sonia Rykiel
Viktor & Rolf
Costume National
Chloe
Vanessa Bruno
Balenciaga
Chanel
Kenzo
Louis Vuitton

= 43

Ajak Deng
Matthew Ames (opened and closed)
Parkchoonmoo
Y-3
Vogue's Fashion’s Night Out show
Edun
Marc by Marc Jacobs
L’Wren Scott
Nanette Lepore
Lela Rose 
Mark Fast
Meadham Kirchhoff
Todd Lynn
Fashion East
Felder Felder
Twenty8Twelve
Michael van der Ham
Holly Fulton
Matthew Williamson 
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Damir Doma
Haider Ackermann
Cacharel
AF Vandervorst
Vanessa Bruno
Moncler Gamme Rouge
Martin Grant
Manish Arora
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton

= 29

Abbey Lee Kershaw
Rag & Bone (closed)
Isaac Mizrahi (opened)
Donna Karan
Ralph Lauren
Anna Sui
Alexander Wang
Derek Lam
Proenza Schouler
Vera Wang
Carolina Herrera
Tom Ford
Preen
Jason Wu
Dolce & Gabbana
Ermanno Scervino
Etro (opened)
Fendi
Gucci
Versace 
Balmain
Chanel
Hermes
Isabel Marant
Lanvin
Miu Miu
Stella McCartney
Valentino
Viktor & Rolf

= 27

Lauren Brown
Joseph Altuzarra
Elise Øverland
Yoana Baraschi 
Burberry Prorsum
Erdem
Giles Deacon
Sass & bide
Topshop Unique
Emilio Pucci
Emporio Armani
Frankie Morello
Giorgio Armani
Jo No Fui
Marco de Vincenzo
Moschino Cheap & Chic
Chanel
Loewe
Paul & Joe
Shiatzy Chen

= 19

Jessica Hart
Gottex 
Christopher Kane
PPQ
Louise Grey
Emilio de la Moreno
Osman
Sass & bide
Julien Macdonald
Matthew Williamson
Antonio Berardi
David Koma
Giles Deacon
Jonathan Saunders
Charlie le Mindu

= 14

Georgie Wass
Tory Burch
Nanette Lepore
Mulberry
Band of Outsiders
Candela
Thuy
Halston
Bebe 
PPQ
Michael van der Ham
Charles Anastase
Fashion East
Amanda Wakeley

= 13

Bambi Northwood-Blyth
Diesel Black Gold (closed)
Rag & Bone
Jen Kao
Joseph Altuzarra 
Topshop Unique
Giles Deacon 
Balenciaga
Loewe
Emanuel Ungaro
Giambattista Valli
Chanel
Kenzo

=12

Annaleise Smith
Joseph Altuzarra (opened)
Carmen Marc Valvo
Monique L’Huillier
Love Sex Money
Krizia
Emporio Armani
Laura Biagiotti
Roberto Musso
Martin Grant
Kenzo

= 10

Ruby Jean Wilson
Dallin Chase
Lacoste
Karen Walker
Custo Barcelona
Imitation
Andy & Debb
Odd Molly

= 7

Catherine McNeil
Ohne Titel (opened)
Jason Wu
Carolina Herrera
Vogue’s Fashion’s Night Out show
Oscar de la Renta 

Matthew Williamson

= 6

Tallulah Morton
Amaya Arzuaga
Manish Arora
Cacharel
Marithé & François Girbaud

= 4 

Shanina Shaik

Project Runway

LAMB

= 2

Miranda Kerr
Balenciaga

= 1

Amelia Brown
Kimberley Ovitz

= 1

Megan Hind
Moncler 

= 1 

Andrej Pejic
KTZ

= 1







all images: style.com

1/ miranda kerr at balenciaga
2/ abbey lee kershaw at yves saint laurent
3/ julia nobis at rick owens
4/ ajak deng at haider ackerman
5/ catherine mcneil at matthew williamson
6/ bambi northwood-blyth at chanel
7/ lauren brown at burberry
8/ jessica hart at christopher kane
9/ annaleise smith at martin grant
10/ georgie wass at fashion east

Short black: Bambi Northwood-Blyth also snags Chanel - Spring/Summer 2011

The Australia's Next Top Model judges seemed to enjoy giving flak to some of the shorter contestants on this year's show. In the end, the taller model - Amanda Ware - won Cycle 6. But a lack of runway regulation height (5'6"-5'7") hasn't stymied Bambi Northwood-Blyth's chances of an international runway career. Her Paris Fashion Week started with Thursday's Balenciaga show, moving onto to Loewe and yesterday's back-to-back Ungaro and Giambattista Valli shows. Well she has just added to that impressive Paris show list with no less than Chanel, joining three other Australian models on the French luxury brand's Spring/Summer 2011 runway: Chanel face Abbey Lee Kershaw, Julia Nobis and Lauren Brown. Judging by this video below (thanks to TFS for sourcing), Northwood-Blyth has been working on her walk, which raised a few eyebrows after New York Fashion Week. She's up at around 1.07. It seems the sky may well now be the limit for her.

Abbey road: Australians on the Spring/Summer 2011 runways (New York)

So we know how at least one Kiwi went at New York Fashion Week - Calvin Klein's exclusive Jessica Clarke (head to Isaac Likes for full documentation on NZ models in SS11) - but how did the Aussies fare all up? A pretty good effort. Congrats to all the girls. Abbey Lee Kershaw, not surprisingly, pulled off the most shows: 13 in total according to frockwriter’s calculations. Great to see the return of Catherine McNeil, although with just five shows under her belt (including several big names and opening one show), one might have expected to see her do a little better. According to (reliable) backstage sources, McNeil came very close to booking the blue chip Tom Ford presentation, but was cancelled at the last minute. Julia Nobis, Ajak Deng and Georgie Wass powered ahead. We’ve already talked about the expected/unexpected success of Bambi Northwood-Blyth. Although her mother agency, Chic Management, did report that Nicole Trunfio was heading to the event, beyond turning up in Michael Angel's front row, Trunfio did not, apparently, walk in any shows. Here are the show tallies. Anything we’ve missed, thanks for a headsup. On to London, Milan and Paris.  

Abbey Lee Kershaw
Rag & Bone (closed)
Isaac Mizrahi (opened)
Donna Karan
Ralph Lauren
Anna Sui
Alexander Wang
Derek Lam
Proenza Schouler
Vera Wang
Carolina Herrera
Tom Ford
Preen
Jason Wu 

Catherine McNeil
Ohne Titel (opened)
Jason Wu
Carolina Herrera
Vogue’s Fashion’s Night Out show
Oscar de la Renta

Julia Nobis
Proenza Schouler (opened and closed)
Vogue's Fashion’s Night Out show
Narciso Rodriguez
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Rag & Bone
3.1 Philip Lim
Alexander Wang
Matthew Ames
Diesel Black Gold
Joseph Altuzarra

Ajak Deng
Matthew Ames (opened and closed)
Parkchoonmoo
Y-3
Vogue's Fashion’s Night Out show
Edun
Marc by Marc Jacobs
L’Wren Scott
Nanette Lepore
Lela Rose

Georgie Wass
Tory Burch
Nanette Lepore
Mulberry
Band of Outsiders
Candela
Thuy
Halston
Bebe

Bambi Northwood-Blyth
Diesel Black Gold (closed)
Rag & Bone
Jen Kao
Joseph Altuzarra

Ruby Jean Wilson
Dallin Chase
Lacoste
Karen Walker
Custo Barcelona

Lauren Brown
Joseph Altuzarra
Elise Øverland
Yoana Baraschi

Annaleise Smith
Joseph Altuzarra (opened)
Carmen Marc Valvo
Monique L’Huillier

Amelia Brown
Kimberley Ovitz

Jessica Hart
Gottex


Images:
1/ Abbey Lee Kershaw, Ralph Lauren. Vogue Italia via TFS
2/ Catherine Mcneil: Ohne Titel, Dazed Digital via TFS
3/ Julia Nobis: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Getty via Daylife
4/ Georgie Wass: Mulberry, Dazed Digital
5/ Ajak Deng: Y3, style.it
6/ Bambi Northwood-Blyth: Rag & Bone, Getty via Daylife
7/ Ruby Jean Wilson: Karen Walker, style.it
8/ Annaleise Smith: Joseph Altuzarra, wwd.com
9/ Lauren Brown: Joseph Altuzarra, wwd.com