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rose smith, dolce e gabbana SS12/getty via daylife

If fashion weeks were like marathons and they awarded a medal for every show finisher in the Big Four fashion cities, Australian models would be buying some extra suitcases right about now to repatriate their hauls. Welcome to the business end of the Spring/Summer 2012 season. Milan wrapped yesterday, Paris starts today and a clear antipodian vanguard has emerged. Milan and Paris are where the big luxury brands are headquartered and this season the Italians chose 12 Australians to showcase their wares (out of a total of 34 who have also appeared on the runways of New York and London over the past three weeks). Abbey Lee Kershaw might not have the SS12 show numbers - she ditched New York Fashion Week altogether, due to New York commitments with her band, Our Mountain - but her showlist reads like a Who's Who of fashion. With 49 shows already under her belt, Julia Nobis could well finish as one of the season's busiest catwalkers. Rising stars include Rose Smith, whose biggest claim to runway fame as of February this year was David Jones. In the interim she has walked for such prestigious names as Chanel (x three shows), Fendi and in Milan this week, Dolce e Gabbana. Here are the updated showlists, with the Milan shows marked in red.

 

JULIA NOBIS
Richard Chai

Tadashi Shoji

Peter Som (opened)

Rebecca Taylor (opened)

Rag & Bone

Lacoste

Alexander Wang

Jill Stuart

Derek Lam

Diane von Furstenberg

Son Jung Wan (opened and closed)

Edun

Tommy Hilfiger

Preen

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Tory Burch

Vera Wang

Narciso Rodriguez

Theyskens' Theory

3.1 Phillip Lim

Michael Kors

Proenza Schouler (closed)

Reed Krakoff

Calvin Klein

Marc Jacobs
Ports 1961

Jaeger London

Jonathan Saunders

Topshop Unique

Richard Nicoll

Acne

Christopher Kane

Antonio Berardi

Giles Deacon

Burberry

Alberta Ferretti

Angelo Marani

Francesco Scognamiglio

Max Mara

Prada

Anteprima

Gabriele Colangelo

Jil Sander

Just Cavalli

Marni

Missoni

Versus

Roberto Cavalli
Alviero Martini First Class

= 49

ROSE SMITH
Richard Chai
Doo.Ri
The Row
Edun
Jill Stuart
Adam
Band of Outsiders (opened)
Y-3
Zero Maria Cornejo (opened)
Tory Burch
Marchesa
Tibi
3.1 Phillip Lim
Ports 1961
Daks

Jaeger London

Mulberry

Erdem

Antonio Berardi 

Blugirl

Anteprima (closed)

D&G

Dolce e Gabbana

Antonio Marras

C'N'C Costume National

Gabriele Colangelo

Frankie Morello

Ter et Bantine

Aquilano.Rimondi

= 30

CODIE YOUNG
Richard Chai
Rebecca Taylor
United Bamboo
Suno
Jill Stuart (closed)
Graeme Armour
Thakoon
Tory Burch
Rodarte
Tibi
Hexa by Cuho
Milly by Michelle Smith
Wayne
Marc Jacobs

Julien Macdonald

House of Holland

Paul Smith

Mulberry

Erdem

Peter Pilotto

Roccobarocco

Antonio Marras

Moschino Cheap and Chic

Just Cavalli

Marni

Marco di Vincenzo

Aquilano.Rimondi
Massimo Rebecchi

= 28


DEMPSEY STEWART
Richard Chai
Rebecca Taylor (closed)
Suno (closed)
Graeme Armour
Honor
Thakoon
3.1 Phillip Lim
Jill Stuart
Marc Jacobs

Julien Macdonald

House of Holland

Topshop Unique

Richard Nicoll

Emilio de la Morena

Pringle of Scotland

Erdem

Giles Deacon

Peter Pilotto

Angelo Marani

Anteprima

Antonio Marras

Gabriele Colangelo

Genny

Marco de Vincenzo

Byblos
Just Cavalli
Moschino Cheap and Chic
Massimo Rebecchi

= 28

MELISSA 'MJ' JOHANNSEN
Steven Alan
Rachel Comey
Nicholas K
The Row
Band of Outsiders
Academy of Art University
Tracy Reese
Creatures of the Wind
Rodarte
Pink Tartan (opened)
Fotini
Elle Tahari
Jeremy Scott
Patrick Ervell

Ashish

Zoe Jordan

Mulberry

Peter Jensen

Thomas Tait

Peter Pilotto

Mark Fast

Simonetta Ravizza

Blugirl

Rocco Barocco

Parah

Byblos

= 26

RUBY-JEAN WILSON
United Bamboo
Peter Som
Yigal Azrouel (opened)
Graeme Armour (closed)
Y-3
Jil Sander Navy
Reem Acra
Marchesa
Sophie Theallet
Jeremy Scott
Marc Jacobs
Patrick Ervell

Julien Macdonald

Jonathan Saunders

Paul Smith

Topshop Unique

John Rocha

Giles Deacon

Burberry

Albino

C'N'C Costume National (opened and closed)

Gabriele Colangelo (opened)

Albino

Trussardi

Jil Sander

Frankie Morello

= 26

ABBEY LEE KERSHAW

Tom Ford (opened)

Pringle of Scotland (opened)

John Rocha (opened, closed)

Burberry

Matthew Williamson

Gucci

Alberta Ferretti

Fendi

Ermanno Scervino

Prada

Etro

Versace

Bottega Veneta

Pucci

Dolce e Gabbana

Roberto Cavalli

=16

CAITLIN LOMAX
Yigal Azrouel

3.1 Phillip Lim

Jonathan Saunders

Topshop Unique

Richard Nicoll

Christopher Kane

Giles Deacon
Aquascutum 

Alberta Ferretti

Prada

Antonio Marras

Sportmax

Versus

= 13

CHRYSTAL COPLAND
Costello Tagliapietra (closed)

Libertine
Pink Tartan
Emerson
Hexa by Cuho
Jeremy Scott

Norman Ambrose

Arise African Fashion Collective

Jonathan Saunders (closed)

Topshop Unique

Giles Deacon

Antonio Marras

= 12

AMANDA WARE
BCBG by Max Azria
Ruffian
Monique Lhuillier
Carlos Miele
Hervé Léger
L'Wren Scott

Clements Ribeiro

Marios Schwab

Nicole Farhi

Antonio Berardi

Pringle of Scotland

= 11

KRYSTAL GLYNN
Richard Chai
Peter Som
Rebecca Taylor
Suno
Helmut Lang
Band of Outsiders
Honor
Tory Burch
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
Theyskens' Theory
Marc Jacobs

= 11  

NICOLE POLLARD
Nicholas K
Ruffian
Band of Outsiders
Sally La Pointe (closed)
Graeme Armour
Rachel Roy
Theyskens Theory
Hexa by Cuho (closed)
Norman Ambrose
Supima

= 10 

AJAK DENG
Richard Chai
Jason Wu
Edun
Ohne Titel
Wayne

Matthew Williamson

Erdem
Todd Lynn 
Mary Katrantzou (opened)

= 9

JESS GOLD

Rebecca Taylor
Helmut Lang
Jen Kao
Faster by Mark Fast
Rachel Zoe
Francesc by Frank Tell

Ashish

Thomas Tait

= 8

SARAH LORIMER
Steven Alan

Wes Gordon
Christian Siriano
Libertine
A Detacher
Wayne
Karen Walker
Park Choon Moo

= 8

PHILIPPA GLEESON
Jenny Packham
Rachel Roy
Billy Reid
L.A.M.B.
Karen Walker
Nanette Lepore (opened)
Chado Ralph Rucci
Naeem Khan

= 8 

VICTORIA LEE

DKNY

Libertine

Blumarine
Blugirl
Byblos
Phillip Plein
Versace showroom presentation

= 7

CLAIRE COLLINS
Faster by Mark Fast
Cut25 by Yigal Azrouel
Rebecca Minkoff
Rachel Zoe
Suno
Wes Gordon
Sally LaPointe

= 7 

JADE JACKSON
Yigal Azrouel
Carlos Miele
Sophie Theallet
Rad by Rad Hourani
Milly by Michelle Smith
Ohne Titel

= 6

LAUREN MOODY
Imitation of Christ
Sally LaPointe
Juan Carlos Obando
Argentine Designers
Nomia
Arise African Fashion Collective

= 6

LAUREN BROWN
Kimberley Ovitz

Son Jung Wan

Reed Krakoff

Chado Ralph Rucci
Arise African Fashion Collective

= 5

CARIS TIIVEL

Christian SirianoBibi
Project Runway
Bibhu Mohapatra
Josie Natori

= 5

ELIZA HUMBLE
Erin by Erin Fetherston
Chris Benz
Gen Art
Douglas Hannant

= 4

SIMONE KERR
Christian Siriano
Pink Tartan
Betsey Johnson
The Blonds

= 4

TOM BULL

Imitation of Christ

Perry Ellis (opened and closed)

Marithé et François Girbaud

Sergio Davila

= 4

JAKE GORDON
Billy Reid
Dominic Lewis
Aston Mozie
Nexus Showroom

= 4

ANDREJ PEJIC
Custo Barcelona (opened)

Jeremy Scott

Mala Breton (opened)

= 3

BAMBI NORTHWOOD-BLYTH

Jonathan Saunders

Topshop Unique

Giles Deacon

= 3

ELYSE TAYLOR
Nicole Miller

VPL

DKNY

= 3

JACK VANDERHART
DKNY Men

Argentine Designers

= 2 

CATHERINE MCNEIL

Matthew Williamson

Pringle of Scotland

= 2

VANESSA MILDE

Imitation of Christ

Eva Minge

= 2

MALLORY JANSEN
WISB (Way It Should Be)
Tribune Standard

= 2

ROBYN LAWLEY

Elena Mirò

= 1

GEO BURKE

Elena Mirò

= 1

photo gallery:


1/ abbey lee kershaw, versace/reuters via daylife
2/ julia nobis, marni/getty via daylife
3/ rose smith, dolce e gabbana/getty via daylife
4/ ruby jean wilson, jil sander/getty via daylife
5/ melissa johannsen, byblos/getty via daylife
6/ caitlin lomax, prada/style.com
7/ chrystal copland, antonio marras/style.com
8/ codie young, antonio marras/getty via daylife
9/ victoria lee, blumarine/style.com
10/ [L to R] dempsey stewart, caitlin lomax, codie young, rose smith at antonio marras/sonny vandevelde
11/ robyn lawley, elena mirò/style.it via bella models management facebook 
12/ geo burke. elena mirò/style.it via bella models management facebook

Fantastic four

antonio marras SS12 backstage/sonny vandevelde

Here are four key members of the new Australian modelling force that has been powering ahead on the runways of New York, London and now Milan for the Spring/Summer 2012 season, as documented by frockwriter over the past fortnight. Shot backstage by Sonny Vandevelde at yesterday's Antonio Marras show, they are, from left: Dempsey Stewart, Caitlin Lomax, Codie Young and Rose Smith. There was a fifth Australian in the same show, not pictured here - Chrystal Copland. All under 21, in demand and having the time of their lives, they are among at least 31 Australians who have been carving up the SS12 show circuit, on many other occasions walking in the same shows. Milan Fashion Week is, however, missing one promising Australian newcomer, Krystal Glynn. The very same model who claims that she recently turned down Italian luxury brand Prada for its Resort 2012 lookbook and campaign, who made an impressive debut at New York Fashion Week and in whom sources say there was significant casting interest in both Milan and Paris. Where is Glynn? Back home celebrating her 17th birthday and a camping holiday with her family. Lomax, meanwhile, scored not only the Prada Resort lookbook, apparently in Glynn's place, but a slot in Prada's SS12 runway show, alongside Abbey Lee Kershaw and Julia Nobis.

To be fair to Glynn, unlike many aspiring models who eagerly send in photos to agencies in the hope of being signed - in the majority of cases, only to be disappointed - she was minding her own business sunbaking on Bondi Beach in March, when Sydney-based agent Lincoln Ferguson first spotted her and asked had she ever considered modelling.

With multiple Australian magazine and fashion ad campaign/lookbook bookings to follow immediately afterwards, as well as Australian Fashion Week shows, Glynn hit the ground running. You could almost call her a reluctant star. Save for the fact that, according to Ferguson, she quit school in mid 2011 to model fulltime and has been working nonstop for the past five months.    

The financial rewards of modelling can be immense. But let's face it, it's an intensively competitive profession, with immense pressures and a high percentage of its workforce is teenage. To the average kid entering the business and their family, it may well look like an industry populated by wankers and bozos. In many cases, of course, they'd be right. 

So, could it all be happening a little bit too quickly for Glynn? Or is she perhaps just the latest Australian model to insist on self managing her career, ignoring advice from agents and minders?

As various agents and casting directors told me in this feature about the rise of Australian models for The Australian's Wish magazine, a large part of the international appeal of Australian girls is that, over and above their work ethic, they are easy to work with, friendly and generally 'low maintenance'. And yet some Australian models have earned reputations for being a tad more difficult. They include Tallulah Morton, Cassi van den Dungen, Stephanie Carta and Catherine McNeil. 
  
Glynn, who hails from the blue collar Sydney suburb of Penrith, told The Sunday Telegraph last weekend, "I wasn't ready to shoot Prada so I turned it down, but I hope the opportunity to work with them will come around again... I would also love to work with Louis Vuitton".
 
So would a million others.  

Rosemary Smith and Emilia Skuza hop on fashion's trans Tasman locomotive

  

She was optioned for another big show, but Rosemary Smith pulled off the next best thing in Milan overnight: Fendi, alongside some of the biggest runway names in the business. Not bad for a first international show season, but Smith has got a long way to catch up with some other downunder newcomers, like Dempsey Stewart, whose already stellar first show season now also includes the blue chip Prada and Burberry shows. New arrivals to this already blistering antipodian show season are runway veterans Abbey Lee Kershaw, who has, not unexpectedly, been cleaning up with big name shows such as as Gucci, Fendi and Burberry; Myf Shepherd, after a year’s hiatus, walking so far for just Angelo Marani; Jessica Hart, who appeared at Matthew Williamson in London; and brand new Adelaide face Emilia Skuza. First emerging on the Paris haute couture runways last month, Skuza turned up at Aquascutum, Antonio Berardi, Mary Karantzou, Amanda Wakeley and Emelia Wickstead in London. The rise and rise of “trans Tasman models” has captured the attention of not only the blogosphere, but also the mainstream media. Today, The Australian ran a story about Bambi Northwood-Blyth and The Sydney Morning Herald covered the plethora of Australian models currently working the show circuit. 

all images: style.com/style.it


1/ rosemary smith at fendi
2/ emilia skuza at mary karantzou
3/ abbey lee kershaw at gucci
4/ myf shepherd at angelo marani
5/ dempsey stewart at prada

Fur realz - Fall/Winter 2011/2012

The European Fall/Winter 2011/2012 menswear season is off and running in Milan. After a day of shows, what are the early trends? Military detailing, velvet, drop-crotch trousers and a surprising amount of colour for a winter season. Of note, Burberry's tangerine and cyclamen pink pea coats, duffle and puffa jackets and Jil Sander's skinny knits, parkas and colour-blocked suiting in an eye-popping palette, which creative director Raf Simons looks to have carried over from his womens' spring 2011 show. Not to mention fur. This time last year we noted a preponderance of shaggy glam rock mens' coats in various fabrications. And although this season, Dolce e Gabbana used faux fur and Roberto Cavalli's patchwork fur coat had almost a vintage vibe, the luxury ante was definitely upped by Burberry, which showed a number of rabbit, lambskin and patchwork Finnish mink jackets, including one spectacular two-tone mink for a cool US$27,000. 

The biggest name in the mens modelling business right now, Serbian Australian Andrej Pejic - who debuted at number 40 on models.com's Top 50 Male Models list last month and then suddenly jumped to number 17 in the past week - was conspicuous by his absence.

Although Pejic briefly touched down in Milan last week to attend some early castings and is so far only confirmed for Tuesday's Neil Barrett show, a "money job" in London saw him up stumps and head to the UK for several days. He is due to arrive back in Milan today.


Images:
1, 2, 3, 4: burberry/getty via daylife
5, 6: dolce e gabbana/dolce e gabbana
7: roberto cavalli/ap via daylife

Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2011 menswear show streaming live

The Spring/Summer 2011 menswear season kicks off today in Milan. Several companies are live streaming shows, Burberry among them. As with last season, select merchandise will be available for preorder straight off the runway from the website from June 19-26th. In the case of this collection, 27 pieces of apparel (sizes 44-56) and nine styles of bag, with delivery promised within 4-6 weeks. The show is due to commence at 3.00pm Milan time (11.00pm AEST). Enjoy.

Prada bumps an all skinny cast to include Victoria's Secret Angels - and four Australians

prada fw1011/getty

Yesterday there were whispers that the Prada cast in Milan might “shake the earth with surprise”. Frockwriter wondered if that might mean Miuccia Prada was planning to include plus sized Crystal Renn? Not quite, but fascinating casting nonetheless and it involves a hell of a lot of Australians. Yes the fashion world was gobsmacked by Balenciaga’s inclusion of Miranda Kerr in its Spring/Summer 2010 show in Paris last September. Well just as frockwriter hinted Kerr might make an appearance in Milan, she has just walked in Prada, alongside two other Victoria's Secret Angels, Doutzen Kroes and Allessandra Ambrosio, not to mention Kerr's compatriots and Chic stablemates Catherine McNeil and Abbey Lee Kershaw. And not forgetting Australia’s hottest new modelling star, Priscilla's Julia Nobis, who, as we reported, scored a Calvin Klein exclusive in New York last week and powered along at London Fashion Week this week, walking for a handful of top shows, including Burberry, Richard Nicoll and Topshop Unique - opening the latter two (and just dubbed a breakout star of the season by New York Magazine). Here is Prada's complete cast list.

None of the Victoria's Secret contract Angels are "plus sized", so let's just put things in perspective here. They are all thinner than "average" women. But they are more voluptuous than your "average" high fashion models, which is why they are in high demand for lingerie and swimwear work.

Catherine McNeil however, interestingly, has not done runway shows for several seasons - because, it has been claimed, she gained weight.

This is not a victory for plus sized models. But it is nonetheless a very interesting move in an area of fashion that is known for its draconian weight regulations and one that is no doubt about to be discussed at length.

Sonny Vandevelde backstage at the FW1011 menswear shows

vivienne westwood FW1011/sonny vandevelde

If you're a regular reader of this blog then you would already be familiar with the name Sonny Vandevelde: the Belgian Australian (aka Belgralian) photographer who has, in frockwriter's humble opinion, transformed backstage fashion photography into an art form. Sonny usually photographs the major womens' runway seasons, but he's on assignment in Paris at the moment completing his first menswear collections, shooting for a variety of publications. Click here to see Sonny's Milan FW1011 menswear slideshow on New York's ubercool Hintmag. And here to see his Paris FW1011 Hintmag gallery, which will be updated to include the latest shows - which wrap up tomorrow. And of course Sonny's blog for others. Frockwriter mentioned Sonny's mini retrospective in New York in September. Come March, he's having a similar show as part of the Melbourne Fashion Festival. Why he hasn't been snapped up by a major retailer or brand for a campaign is beyond me. Of course there was this Old Navy revamp - whose art director in fact used Sonny's shots for the campaign mockup (sighted by me), only to commission another photographer to copy his style. Sucks, but that's life. Ditto getting his heart broken by Lara Stone. But that's another story...

Fancy a shag?

gianfranco ferre FW1011/getty via daylife

Beyond fashion's rapidly accelerating digital uptake, with four brands streaming their shows live in the first two days of the men's Fall/Winter 2010/2011 runway season, which is currently underway in Milan, a couple of other trends of note. A definite heritage theme, with several houses that are celebrating anniversaries (Ermenegildo Zegna, 100 years; Dolce e Gabbana, 20) delving into their respective roots. The skinny trouser continues to trend, with a firm nod to the spray-on version - aka megging. At Dolce e Gabbana and Emporio Armani, morphing into longjohns. One garment to emerge in multiple collections is the shaggy man's coat or vest. Part glam rock, part Fred Flintsone, it's fashioned from fur, astrakhan, shearling or wool.









Top to bottom:

1. Gianfranco Ferré/Reuters
2. Gucci/Getty
3. Vivienne Westwood/Getty
4. Pringle of Scotland/Getty
5. Burberry/Reuters
6. Costume National/Getty