Showing posts with label menswear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label menswear. Show all posts

Thursday, 1 December 2011

The high Low

chic management
Twenty-two year-old Brisbane-ite Angus Low may prove extra popular on the international circuit, once any runway colleagues suffering from back pain twig that he doubles as a physio. Low graduated last year from the University of Queensland with a Bachelor of Physiotherapy Studies – and was awarded the Dean’s Commendation for academic excellence – and has been working full-time at a private Brisbane hospital. Modelling part-time for the past two years, prior to June 2011, the biggest name on his modelling CV was the Mercedes-Benz Brisbane Fashion Festival. Enter the Spring/Summer 2012 menswear season in Milan and Paris and Low can now add shows for Lanvin, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Costume National and Raf Simons. And we can add his name to a bulging Aussie male model pack that is headed up by Andrej Pejic, Tom Bull, Jordan Coulter, Jack Vanderhart and Jordan & Zac Stenmark. Although Low's SS12 show season transpired under the publicity radar back home, evidently he made quite an impression because two months ago, his Brisbane mother agency Dallys tells frockwriter, he shot Lanvin's SS12 menswear campaign in New York with Steven Meisel, two other male models - and a bunch of snakes. Then last month in Paris, he shot Lanvin’s SS12 eyewear campaign with Stéphane Gallois. Low has just given up his day job to pursue modelling full-time. 



Founded in 1950 by June Dally Watkins, Dallys Model Management claims to be the oldest model agency in the southern hemisphere. 

Dallys was the first agency to sign Catherine McNeil and Nicole Pollard, among many others and repped Miranda Kerr from the age of 13-18, before she moved to Sydney and signed with Chic Management (which also reps Low, McNeil and Pollard). 






all images: chic management

Monday, 28 November 2011

Paul de Gelder: Navy diver, shark attack survivor, smoking hot swimwear model

silke stuckenbrock/the navy diver
 
Aimee Mullins meet Paul de Gelder. Much has been written – and broadcast - about de Gelder’s near brush with death on February 11, 2009, when the then 31 year-old Royal Australian Navy clearance diver and former paratrooper and East Timor peacekeeper came face-to-face with a three metre bull shark, which savaged his right hand and leg. A double amputation, extensive rehabilitation and two years later, de Gelder is back at work as a Royal Australian Navy diver trainer, with several brand new spinoff careers, including motivational speaker and conservationist, who has called on the United Nations to protect sharks from over fishing. Earlier this year he also became a published author, with the release of No time for fear: How a shark attack survivor beat the odds. But de Gelder has another new career that’s a little less well-documented: fashion model. To be precise, underwear and swimwear model for new Sydney-based brand The Navy Diver






No, the brand was not named after de Gelder. 


Founder Michael Christofis was already mates with several other RAN divers at the time he met de Gelder and in fact they introduced the pair. Christofis was immediately impressed with de Gelder's charisma.

“I was with Paul the week before he got attacked and this guy could walk into a room and charm everyone, he was just so fit and audacious, that alone captivated me” says Christofis, who launched The Navy Diver in November 2010 as an underwear range, adding a  swimwear collection to the mix two months ago. “After seeing him go through the attack and seeing even more tenacity afterwards, I felt like Paul stepped up to the challenge, almost in a way that I don’t think a lot of people could. As soon as I saw Paul in prosthetics, I thought, it’s time the world starts to appreciate someone with an acquired disability, who has prosthetics and who can still look sexy and hot. He’s almost half man, half machine”.


Christofis' promotional imagery includes shots of de Gelder both with and without his prostheses. Above and below is a series of campaign images shot to promote the new swimwear range, sans artifical hand. De Gelder's carbon fibre and black plastic robot hand - called an 'eye limb' - can be seen in some of the underwear shots on The Navy Diver website. 

Christofis has even cranked up the 'man/machine' idea for the welcome page of his website, with an enhanced photo-illustration of de Gelder as a cyborg:

photo by alex photopaint, illustration by chris ryder/the navy diver

De Gelder is pretty comfortable with the cyborg idea. In fact 'The Terminator' title of the ABC Australian Story profile which aired earlier this year comes from an anecdote recounted by de Gelder in the interview, regarding an exchange with his plastic surgeon Dr Kevin Ho shortly after the shark attack. When Ho announced that de Gelder's badly-mauled right leg would have to be amputated below the knee, de Gelder told Ho, “Doc, take it. Make me a Terminator."

Here is a preview of de Gelder in The Navy Diver's new video to promote the swimwear range, just shot in Forster, NSW:



It's not the first time that a model with prosthetics has come to the attention of the fashion world. Many would recall Aimee Mullins, a double amputee and Paralympian, who attracted considerable attention after appearing in Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 1999 show, wearing a pair of hand-carved wooden legs. 

Women and men with any kind of physical disability are, however, extremely rare in modelling.

At a time when many in de Gelder’s situation would most likely have been feeling extraordinarily self-conscious, what prompted him to become an underwear model?

“When Mickey initially told me about his dream to do the Navy Diver underwear, and his desire to have me as one of his models I nearly choked on the food I was eating” de Gelder told frockwriter. “I thought, you've got to be kidding. Who's going to want to see some skinny bloke with one hand and one leg in their jocks? The passion to fulfill his dream though was very evident and as time went on he began to sway me. I really enjoy helping people, especially my friends. My public profile had increased a bit and I figured that if I could give him any sort of boost then it really would be the right thing to do. Although I was very nervous. It was one of those opportunities which, if you passed it up, you might kick yourself later. Plus I really enjoy getting out of my comfort zone because those are the times where you learn the most about yourself and what you're actually capable of. Whether it's fast-roping 90ft out of a helicopter, diving 60m beneath the ocean or holding your breath and doing ridiculous-feeling poses underwater in front of a camera. It's all about experiencing and embracing opportunities.

“I can honestly say that I'm no model and no I’ve never done any modelling before. I really just tried to have some fun with it and hope I didn't look too silly. I'm doing so many things at this point in my life, from public speaking, to visiting children's hospitals, to addressing delegates from the UN in New York on conservation, that underwear modelling really didn't seem that far fetched. Just a lot scarier. The fact that afterwards when all the pictures came out and peoples’ comments were so flattering and so nice, really made me feel better about the way my body had become. I train very hard for my work as a navy diver but I would never class myself as someone who would be considered for modelling. I'm not one of "the beautiful people" [laughs]. I'm just a normal guy.


For the moment Christofis and de Gelder have what Christofis describes as an "informal exclusive arrangement". But de Gelder told frockwriter that he would consider other modelling work in the future, should any other fashion marketers prove to be similarly open-minded.

“I've never really considered the internal politics of the modelling world, I guess as I've never been a part of it" he added. "I think it's like any job: some people are more suited to it than others but beauty is, as we know, in the eye of the beholder. It can't be an easy job catering to every person's desires of what is aesthetically pleasing. Colour, creed or disability though, I don't think anyone should believe that they can't be or do anything that they want. The cold hard fact is however that life can be really tough and people have the capacity to be mean. So what! People overcome adversity and beat the odds every day. Oscar Pistorius, the runner from South Africa with no legs; Jessica Watson the teenager who circumnavigated the globe by herself; an army friend of mine who was in a helicopter crash in Afghanistan... he broke his back and several other bones but now kick boxes competitively. We are all more capable than we give ourselves credit for. If I had walked into a modelling agency with one hand and a prosthetic leg, I'd probably be looked at like 'Is this guy taking the piss?' I don't even have a modelling agent now but through circumstances outside of my control and a willingness to be open to experiences I ended up modelling in my underwear in magazines and websites around the world. So who's to say something can't be done?”







all images: silke stuckenbrock for the navy diver

Monday, 21 March 2011

Boy's own - LMFF 2011


A very high percentage of the fashion on last week's runways at the L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival was womenswear. But there was one menswear-dedicated show: Thursday night's Menswear Runway that was presented in tandem with GQ Australia. Oh and a local optical retailer whose name escapes us. Much to the frustration of backstage media - and, we understand, some of the organisers - nearly all photographers were kicked out at the last minute, in preparation for the arrival of VIP showpony, Helena Christensen. Celebrities often have demanding backstage riders, Christensen's apparently included no photographers and, beyond one or two interviews, no other press exposure. We understand the extent of the coverage outside of Melbourne reflected these restrictions. Click (here) to see frockwriter's Posterous pic gallery of the show.     

Sunday, 6 February 2011

Meet the new boy, Jack Vanderhart

models.com

On Friday, frockwriter posted about the potentially bumper season of Australian models on New York Fashion Week's runways for the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 season, which commences on Thursday. Three days later, there's already an update. Meet Cronulla's Jack Vanderhart. Modelling for just a few months, the 17 year-old's portfolio includes one editorial in Vogue Australia, two Australian GQ editorials and a campaign for pyjama tycoon Peter Alexander. According to his mother agency EMG Models, Vanderhart is about to add something with a little more international resonance to that list: Calvin Klein exclusive. EMG reports that Vanderhart has just been confirmed for Calvin Klein's menswear show in New York at 2pm on Sunday 13th February. A Calvin Klein exclusive is considered a highly prestigious get for any new model and has the potential to launch their career. Sydney's Julia Nobis scored an exclusive with the womens' show last year.

Friday, 28 January 2011

Meet the new girl, Emilia Skuza

elie saab haute couture SS11/getty via daylife

In spite of the deluge of global publicity following Jean Paul Gaultier's decision to cast Serbian Australian male model Andrej Pejic as the bride of his haute couture show in Paris on Wednesday, Pejic was of course not the only Australian on the haute couture runways. Abbey Lee Kershaw, a recent Chanel advertising face and runway regular, turned up at Chanel for yet another exclusive, no surprises there. Also scoring Chanel: Julia Nobis, who had a busy haute couture season, also walking at the Elie Saab, Georges Hobeika and Bouchra Jarrar shows. Ajak Deng walked at Alexandre Vauthier. According to Priscillas, Lauren Brown, who has appeared in several Chanel ready-to-wear shows, was in town for the haute couture castings but as far as frockwriter can tell, did not turn up on a single catwalk. One Australian who has slipped completely under the radar until now walked at Elie Saab and Bouchra Jarrar, alongside Nobis, as well as the show of new haute couture name Maxime Simoens - Emilia Skuza.


And three haute couture shows were not the sum total of Skuza’s catwalk appearances in Paris over the past fortnight. 

On Thursday 20th January, the 18 year-old, Adelaide-based Polish Australian was one of several women cast for Smalto’s menswear show (see below) on day one of the Paris Fall/Winter 2011/2012 menswear season and she also appeared in the Etam parade at the Grand Palais on Monday 24th. 
 

Etam is a French mass market lingerie and swimwear retailer. The company’s big bucks, Victoria’s Secret-style extravaganza featured performances from entertainers such as Beth Ditto, The Kills and Boy George and high profile modelling names such as Karolina Kurkova and Australia’s Nicole Trunfio. Although it’s a little difficult to tell from the video, below, that looks like Skuza at 9.58. Trunfio appears at 6.24 and 13.21.  

Skuza, who has just scored a TER of 99.7 in her HSC, is repped by Finesse Models in her home state, Chadwick in Sydney and IMG's Development division in New York and Paris.

Her experience in Australia consists of a few local parades, including shows at the Adelaide and Sydney Fashion Festivals and some low-profile beauty and fashion shoots.
 

A dead ringer for a young Gisele Bündchen, Skuza is one of several new Australian models who are poised to make their marks on the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 womens runways, which kick off in New York on February 10.



smalto fw1112/enmodefashion

 

Thursday, 20 January 2011

Andrej Pejic is James Blond

sonny vandevelde
After a big London booking delayed his arrival in Milan earlier this week and only ultimately walking in one show there - Neil Barrett - Andrej Pejic finally made a spectacular entree to the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Paris mens show season overnight at Jean Paul Gaultier's show. As both a man - and, surprise, surprise, also as a woman. Inspired by legendary British spook James Bond, the collection was opened by a pistol-packing macho model in a tuxedo. Pejic was second out, also in a tuxedo, but with the shirt louchely loosened to bare his chest and his signature platinum blond locks parted to the side, softly curled and tumbling down over one shoulder à la Veronica Lake. Thence followed a suite of other tuxedo-inspired looks, including some deconstructed tuxes, obviously a Gaultier trademark and yet more examples of the controversial "shuit", or men's shorts suit, which has been gaining popularity on the mens runways for the past few seasons. Presumably more in keeping with Bond's action sequences, a number of sportier ensembles also hit the runway, featuring sprayed-on motocross leggings teamed with glam, gilt bomber jackets and jean jackets festooned with metallic sequins. 

After a second exit in an all black trench coat, cigarette pants and shirt ensemble, teamed with sunglasses, Pejic closed the show in high heels and a fur gilet - fur a confirmed trend this mens' season - carrying a golden gun. He was greeted with a big kiss from Gaultier when the designer took his bow. Frockwriter's backstage sources report that Gaultier referred to Pejic as his "James Blond". 

Androgyny might be a big buzzword in fashion right now, but it's worth remembering that Gaultier has been flirting with the concept for the past 30 years. 

He first promoted the idea of men in skirts in 1985, later putting them in corsets and tutus and blended genders in numerous advertising campaigns. He even launched a unisex collection back in 1994. 

No surprise, then, that Gaultier was the first international designer to cast Pejic in a runway show - at the last Paris mens shows in June 2010. And then cast him alongside lookalike Czech supermodel Karolina Kurkova for his Spring/Summer 2011 advertising campaign, dressing them in one shot in identical trench coats from the womens' collection.

You could say the supremely androgynous Serbian Australian is Gaultier's dream model.  Stand by to see just where this collaboration might be heading next.

Meanwhile, Pejic's other confirmed bookings this week include today's Comme des Garçons show and Sunday's Paul Smith show.  

all three photos above: sonny vandevelde
 

remaining shots: getty via daylife

Saturday, 15 January 2011

Fur realz - Fall/Winter 2011/2012

make gif

The European Fall/Winter 2011/2012 menswear season is off and running in Milan. After a day of shows, what are the early trends? Military detailing, velvet, drop-crotch trousers and a surprising amount of colour for a winter season. Of note, Burberry's tangerine and cyclamen pink pea coats, duffle and puffa jackets and Jil Sander's skinny knits, parkas and colour-blocked suiting in an eye-popping palette, which creative director Raf Simons looks to have carried over from his womens' spring 2011 show. Not to mention fur. This time last year we noted a preponderance of shaggy glam rock mens' coats in various fabrications. And although this season, Dolce e Gabbana used faux fur and Roberto Cavalli's patchwork fur coat had almost a vintage vibe, the luxury ante was definitely upped by Burberry, which showed a number of rabbit, lambskin and patchwork Finnish mink jackets, including one spectacular two-tone mink for a cool US$27,000. 

The biggest name in the mens modelling business right now, Serbian Australian Andrej Pejic - who debuted at number 40 on models.com's Top 50 Male Models list last month and then suddenly jumped to number 17 in the past week - was conspicuous by his absence.

Although Pejic briefly touched down in Milan last week to attend some early castings and is so far only confirmed for Tuesday's Neil Barrett show, a "money job" in London saw him up stumps and head to the UK for several days. He is due to arrive back in Milan today.


Images:
1, 2, 3, 4: burberry/getty via daylife
5, 6: dolce e gabbana/dolce e gabbana
7: roberto cavalli/ap via daylife

Monday, 13 December 2010

Pawel Bednarek fronts Song for the Mute Autumn/Winter 2011



Elliot Ward-Fear isn't the only emerging Australian fashion designer with big branding ideas. Just three seasons old, Sydney menswear label Song for the Mute has recruited Polish model Pawel Bednarek for its Autumn/Winter 2011 campaign and lookbook shot by Bowen Arico in and around Wollongong. Although not as feminine as Australia's Andrej Pejic, Bednarek nevertheless definitely has the moment's popular androgynous look - as harnessed in editorials by publications such as Dazed & Confused Japan. Which suits the cool, asexual vibe of much of Song for the Mute's clothing. The brand is designed by Melvin Tanaya and Lyna Ty (below), who will take their winter collection - entitled 'Milieu' - to the upcoming Paris mens' Fall/Winter 2011/2012 fashion week (January 19-23), where they will be represented by Showroom Romeo. Song for the Mute is also among five finalists for the 2011 L'Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival Designer Award, a competition that has previously been won by Josh Goot, Friedrich Gray, Romance Was Born and Dion Lee. The event runs from March 14-20 and as previously reported, will be attended by Dazed Group co-founder Jefferson Hack - who apparently won't just be speaking at LMFF's hugely popular Business Seminar, but may even DJ at a soiree.





all images: bowen arico for song for the mute/supplied exclusively to frockwriter by die cast agency

Monday, 6 December 2010

Andrej Pejic, campaign trailblazer

thomas lohr for i-D via TFS

Long time, no Andrej Pejic post. Australia's most successful new model, of either gender, has been building up such a body of editorial work since first emerging on the Paris menswear runways in June, it has been difficult keeping up. We clocked, of course, his three Vogue coups - notably the Vogue Paris and Vogue Italia spreads, shot with Mert + Marcus and Steven Meisel, respectively. And it seems Pejic's blue chip editorials - which all capitalised on his distinctive androgynous look, a look that some have suggested is at the vanguard of a new "femimen" trend - have not gone unnoticed by other fashion heavyweights. Frockwriter can reveal that Pejic recently flew to north Africa to shoot an advertising campaign for a major international fashion brand. We can't disclose the name, unfortunately, just that it co-stars top (female) Latvian model Ginta Lapina. With the right styling, 21 year-old Lapina could be a dead ringer for 19 year-old Pejic, who is of course half Serbian and half Croatian. It sounds like the brand, which produces both mens and womens collections, may be planning a mix-and-match, guess-the-gender concept. But that won't be Pejic's only Spring/Summer 2011 campaign. After returning to Australia on Saturday to commence work with some local publications, Pejic has suddenly been obliged to up stumps after being booked for another ad campaign - this time for a major European fashion brand. He leaves tomorrow for New York to shoot that with a well-known photographic duo. Pejic will then return to Australia to spend Christmas with his family, before leaving for Europe in early January, ahead of the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 menswear season in Milan and Paris.   

Thursday, 4 November 2010

Men in furs II

arena homme +/morphoman via TFS

Another day, another Andrej Pejic editorial. This time it’s not Vogue but well, Arena Homme + does call itself “the bible of contemporary mens culture….so many men turn to it as an essential read, as well as a reliable seasonal source of wardrobe advice”. The Winter 2010/Spring 2011 edition has just launched and according to this editorial lensed by Willy Vanderperre, men will be rocking Gucci fur coats and lippie during the northern winter (head to Morphoman to see the complete set of images). After Vogue Italia’s louche new 'Venus in Furs' editorial, which also co-stars Pejic, could the animal rights lobby be losing its grip on the anti-fur PR front?




all images: willy vanderperre for arena homme + scanned by morphoman via merryhussel/TFS 

Wednesday, 6 October 2010

Cut copy: MJ Bale's cartoon campaign a dead ringer for P Johnson's

p johnson SS0910
So yesterday frockwriter posted an exclusive preview of a new ad campaign by new Australian luxury menswear label MJ Bale, which was launched in late 2009 by cashed-up Herringbone co-founder Matt Jensen. The idea for the campaign was a bunch of images of a model in the MJ Bale collection – with cartoon faces, hands and feet superimposed over the model. The cartoons were courtesy Sydney graffiti artist Jumbo. Fantastic idea. Only problem: Patrick Johnson says it's his. Who is Johnson? A London-trained Sydney tailor who has been in business for three years and who launched his first campaign this time last year: a series of images of a model in his collection, with cartoon faces, hands and feet superimposed over the originals. Here is a selection, above and below (which remain on Johnson's website). The creative collaborator in Johnson's case was Sydney artist Tristan Ceddia and Johnson reports it took the duo six months to nail the concept. The MJ Bale images were supplied to frockwriter in good faith and unfortunately we were not familiar with Johnson’s brand or campaign prior to a large volume of hostile comments from his supporters this morning. Others claim the real pioneer of the photo/cartoon/fashion mashup is yet another Australian artist, Ashley Wood, who created some earlier illustrations for Diesel's spinoff streetwear brand 55DSL. To be fair to Johnson here, it's not just the general photo/cartoon idea that was picked up by MJ Bale, but the exact look of Johnson's campaign.   

What says Johnson? 

“Copying is the best form of flattery I suppose, but it’s a little bit too close for comfort. It’s a tiny market in Australia and there’s only two of us doing it. It would be nice if people came up with something a little bit original. Not many people have probably seen my campaign and that’s why he probably thought he could do it. It’s frustrating for me because I’m small. It’s annoying”.

What says Jensen?

“Patrick does have a campaign like that. But we actually have have a long interest in illustration. Really what we’re creating here is harking back to the old New Yorker magazine-type illustrative concepts”.

As to the criticism that the new MJ Bale campaign is just a blatant ripoff of P Johnson’s, Jensen told frockwriter:

“We’ll take that criticism on the chin, What we like is this nostalgic concept of illustration, whether it’s through our patterns that we’re drawing or our illustrations. For us it’s an ongoing process of collaborating with artists. And this is what we’ve got this season. It’s just a bit of fun  It’s a seasonal campaign that’s out there.

“I’m not saying that its our idea. It’s an illustrative format that we like and this is what we’re doing this season. We’re not stuck on any one concept. We’ll take the criticism on the chin. It’s a new campaign. We like it. And we hope other people like it as well.”


Why doesn't Jensen dedicate some of his by all accounts considerable resources to the research and development of new creative ideas? 
 






 


all images: supplied to frockwriter by pj johnson