Mother and son

So Myer celebrated its 100th birthday, simultaneously unveiling the A$300million Bourke Street flagship store revamp, with a million dollar party last night. Arguably the biggest star of the night was Melbourne modelling sensation Andrej Pejic accompanied by his proud mum Jadranka Savic, who looked beautiful in a custom-made black Grecian-style gown by Jane Lamerton. Kitted out in embellished gold trousers and tuxedo jacket by Yeojin Bae and towering black platform boots, Pejic's extravagant up-do was inspired, he told The Melbourne Herald Sun, by Helena Bonham Carter's character Bellatrix Lestrange from Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Noted Pejic, "I watched it on the plane and I'm like, that's the hair that I want". 

all images: youbeutie.com

Andrejmania

holly blake for michael wolff

Are you ready for the seven days of Andrej? In his first visit back home downunder since his already burgeoning media profile went into overdrive, thanks to several rather groundbreaking turns on Jean Paul Gaultier’s runways in Paris in January, Serbian Australian modelling superstar Andrej Pejic touched down in Melbourne this morning for what frockwriter understands is a very busy week. We hear today is in fact his only free day. Pejic is in town for Thursday night’s big unveiling of the revamped Bourke Street, Melbourne flagship of Australian department store Myer. In and around that event, one rehearsal, one in-store photocall on Wednesday at 11.45am – not exactly a press conference, but the next best thing – and at least two photoshoots have been squeezed. One of the photoshoots is for an Australian eveningwear label – a womens eveningwear label, just to clarify. And Pejic will of course be catching up with his family, who were first profiled on Seven Network’s Sunday Night program on February 13th. 

Joining Pejic on the red carpet on Thursday will be his charming mother Jadranka, who has been outfitted for the occasion by designer Jane Lamerton. We attended last week’s fittings for Jadranka’s custom-made dress and took a few shots:

Pejic himself will reportedly be wearing a mashup of Arthur Galan and Yeojin Bae.

It’s unclear at this stage whether their red carpet sortie will be the only appearance that the Pejics make at the event.
 
Since we last covered Pejic’s skyrocketing career, after the Fall/Winter 2011/2012 show season, during which he walked for twelve different designers - half in menswear and half in womenswear - Pejic has been working flat out and the global publicity has not stopped. Little wonder he is edging closer to the world Top 10 of models.com’s Top 50 Men list, having just moved into the number 11 spot.
 
Notable jobs have included two magazine covers (Zeit Magazin and Photo), a photoshoot for Dazed & Confused and at least three videos: for Dossier Journal, Crash magazine and emerging talent website The Ones 2 Watch.





 
Just how to leverage this unprecedented interest into serious earnings... that’s the $64million question.
 
A big bucks Myer campaign? Too edgy for a mainstream retailer with a very conservative advertising image, say our sources – in spite of the fact that Myer is so keen to associate itself with Pejic this week.
 

Beauty contracts are where the big money lies in modelling. You have to wonder just how long it will be before a major name snaps Pejic up. Jean Paul Gaultier perhaps, for one of his fragrances? 

So far, two small Australian companies have been the only beauty advertisers to step up to the Pejic plate. The Fudge hair product brand and, most recently, Sydney hair stylist Michael Wolff. 

Wolff's ad, shot by Sydney photographer Holly Blake, featured in a recent edition of Harpers Bazaar Australia:

Wolff told frockwriter:

“I was looking and casting girls and I couldn’t really find the girl. The reference I was using was the story that Andrej did in French Vogue. And Holly Blake said ‘You know this guy is Australian don't you?' We spent a day with him, back in December, he was on his way to Paris. Whilst he was here, I coloured and cut his hair and the next day I shot with him. I have a good friend called Christopher Esber and I borrowed a shirt, a double shirt with cotton and rubber over the top. That was the hero shot I used for the ad.

”At the end of the day, I loved Andrej’s look so much, the whole androgynous thing… it elevated the whole image of the salon. It’s kind of like stepping into the moment. Does it matter if it’s a man or a woman? So many guys have long hair. People appreciate beautiful people. To me Andrej had the most perfect face.

”It’s what’s now. This is what’s happening now. I see lots of young people walking around and I think they’re quite androgynous. It’s not about sexuality, about being gay or straight. There’s a whole new thing going on now, so having the opportunity to shoot Andrej was very cool”.

Here are some hitherto unseen outtakes from the Michael Wolff shoot, which we just couldn't resist turning into a little flash animation.... 

all images: supplied to frockwriter by michael wolff/holly blake

The big league: H&M launches a plus size collection for Spring

Karl Lagerfeld severed ties with H&M in part because the company wanted to produce his collection in large sizes, while he was reportedly only interested in designing “fashion for slender and slim people”. But it seems the Swedish fast fashion behemoth hasn’t let this rain on its plus size parade. From early March, H&M will offer a 20-unit capsule collection called, simply, Inclusive, which will be available in sizes 32-54 and sold exclusively online (these would appear to be Swedish sizes, which equate to an Australian 6-28). Many thanks to Runway Revolution for the headsup. Why online only? In 2008, when Australian designer Leona Edmiston decided to double her size range to a 24, coincidentally she also only offered the larger sizes online, after her research indicated that many larger women felt uncomfortable in boutiques. 

After frockwriter (in her previous incarnation as Fully Chic) opened up what would become a rather heated discussion on the subject, others added in that many larger women in fact feel unwelcome in mainstream fashion boutiques. 

Considering that so many fashion boutiques appear not to have much stock over a size 10, is that so very surprising? 

So far H&M appears only to be shipping to Austria, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Holland, Norway, Sweden, Swedish Finland and the UK, but we have a hunch they may be about to be inundated with global enquiries. 

The accompanying campaign features plus size Australian model Robyn Lawley (second from the top).  

Great initiative. Adorable dresses. Not before time.

all images: H&M

Gail Sorronda gets the Dolce e Gabbana treatment

Who needs Roberto Cavalli when you’re being mentored by Dolce e Gabbana? Overnight, Brisbane native Gail Reid popped up in this video interview on Dolce e Gabbana’s Swide website. Reid's five year-old Gail Sorronda label is one of 21 labels that were hand-picked by the Italian luxury titans for their brand new fashion incubator retail concept in Milan, Spiga2. “I love Gail Sorronda. It’s my taste” Stefano Gabbana told The Wall Street Journal last month. It has been a very big year for Reid. In March, she told frockwriter that she was being considered for a freelance consulting gig at Roberto Cavalli’s studio. By July, that had yet to transpire, but that month Reid was one of seven finalists in the 2010 edition of Who Is On Next, an emerging talent showcase in Italy that is jointly organised by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia. Great to see major fashion names supporting newbies although that said, it’s a little odd to see included in the Spiga2 lineup Paris-based Australian expat Martin Grant, who has been showing on schedule in Paris for a number of years. Grant established his label in Melbourne in 1982, when he was just 15.

The real McCall: Alice McCall hangs out her first shingle

Exciting news for Alice McCall fans. Six years after the MTV stylist turned Buddhist Punk womenswear designer and sass & bide staffer launched her now cult eponymous label, which is stocked by over 160 stores in 10 countries, McCall is two weeks away from opening her first bricks-and-mortar store. Frockwriter can reveal that the first Alice McCall flagship will open on November 1st on South Dowling Street in Sydney's Darlinghurst, with a launch party slated for December 8th. 'The Accordion Girls' Spring/Summer 2010/2011 collection will be on the racks. But here is a preview of McCall's '70s-inspired  'Birds of a Feather' Autumn/Winter 2011 collection, that will be showcased in-store via this new branding campaign starring Tallulah Morton, that was produced by Little Hero, shot by Jordan Graham and styled by Jolyon Mason, with innovative graphics courtesy artist Sydney artist Techa Noble (of The Birthday Suit). Earlier today we caught up with McCall by phone from her Bali home, that she shares with partner, designer Nicholas Morley, and their three year old daughter Wilde Rose Morley McCall.

You launched in 2004. Why wait so long before opening a boutique?  
Alice McCall: Really I think the brand grew so quickly and then without proper sort of business planning and structure, I’ve been focussing on just setting up the right team and the infrastructure. Now the business runs so smoothly and efficiently. We’ve got a great gm and we’ve got a great team and it’s just the right time now. I think six years has really gone quite quickly and we’re in the position now where everything’s really planned and strategised. And that’s when we had the shop pencilled in for in the business plan. We’ve found the perfect location, so now it’s happening really quickly.

After Sydney, what’s next on the retail rollout agenda?
My plan would be do another one in Sydney after this. In either of the [two] Westfields. Then I would say Melboune. Definitely just focussing on the Australian market. But look, everything’s just going so well with the label at the moment, particularly with the last collection that we did, 'The Accordion Girls'. What I’ve been doing is really focussing on doing great product – the aesthetic of the product as well as the quality. And our products are amazing - it’s selling out. We’ve had reorders on mycatwalk.com.au before we’ve even dropped the product from The Accordion Girls into store. Twice. They’re substantial, massive reorders.

You have your own online boutique as well don’t you?
Yes we do and it does really, really well, so that was a great indication that a store is going to do fantastically, because our online boutique is going over target every week.

What percentage of your sales would be from online?
It could be about 10-15percent. David Jones is still a really big account. Our biggest international market is Japan. We’ve really maintained that cult following in Japan. We sell to Barneys and have 30 key accounts in Japan.

What percentage of your overall business is Australian?
Most of it is in Australia. And will remain so, because our retail expansion is only focussed on Australia. I think it’s about 70percent.

You literally just signed the release and will open in a fortnight. That’s a mighty fast bump in.
It’s going to be a very quick bump in! What I really like about that area is... There’s Désordre next door which sells Ellery and Fernando [Frisoni]. Nick Tobias, the architect, has sort of bought up the street and is really planning to make it the next Glenmore [Road, Paddington]. They’re really tidying up the street. So it’s great to be a part of that movement which is happening down there. The new stores that are popping up, there’s a new restaurant popping up and then just on Oxford Street you’ve got Shag and Sportsgirl and South West Trader. So it’s great, I’m very happy to be there.

What will the store look like?
It’s really just going to be completely white. I’ve got some amazing art from photographer Emma Summerton, a friend of mine. I’m going to be putting up her prints - the Polaroid series that she did of herself. Then it’s going to be all white piping rails, that look like old industrial piping. And then just really focussing on the product again and the art that I’ll be showing.

Is any particular architect involved in the fitout?
No, not at all. I’ve been working with a graphic designer, Techa Noble. So the exciting thing is, we have this wall on one side of the building that’s two storeys high that we’re going to be able to use as an art wall, to advertise or do whatever we want. So I’m going to be doing different art projects. You can see it from Oxford Street. So definitely, there will be that feeling of art-meets-fashion, with Emma Summerton’s work and using Techa for the great art wall outside.  

You are known for your killer dresses. They’re really a key component of each collection aren’t they?
The percentage is about 65-70percent dresses. It is the bread and butter of the business, absolutely. And whenever we range plan from the beginning, dresses are the thing that we’ll focus on. It’s interesting, Kylie Minogue has just been wearing our stuff and as a result we’ve had requests from Dannii Minogue and I’ve just had an email from [UK stylist] Edward Ennniful from i-D requesting clothes for an Emma Summerton shoot. So the whole PR thing is really gaining momentum at the moment.

What is the DNA of the Alice McCall brand?
I think it’s the colour, the print and the attention to detail, which has I guess a youthfulness and a sense of fun.

You have already shown on international runways, would you do it again?
I showed in London three times and I’ve also shown in New York once. I would show in London again, definitely. Short-term is Australia, again, which goes in line with opening our retail. And then after that, London.
 
Where is home for you at the moment exactly?
Half and half. I’ve just been in Australia for two months. And now I’ll be here for six weeks. Here is where I start my design and then I go back to Australia and perfect my patterns there with patternmakers. We do about 50percent of our production out of China, 40percent out of Bali and then 10percent in Australia. But I design here and I get a lot of creative freedom here.

Do you hang out with the Australians in Bali or are you too busy working?
Sure I do. Jessie White from Shakuhachi, who is doing so well, is one of my best friends. She’s just down the road. Lou [Iselin], who used to be [South Dowling Street boutique] Capital L and is now Please Louise... I’ve got a handful of Aussies that I see.

photographer: jordan graham
graphic design: techa noble
styling: jolyon mason 

makeup: natasha severino for MAC

hair: pete lennon

both images: supplied exclusively to frockwriter by alice mccall

Super Tuesday at David Jones

 

Tremendous effort this morning from David Jones. The retailer's corporate stewardship might be under a dark cloud of controversy at present thanks to a sexual harassment suit, but as far as fashion shows go, it was the best DJs show that this journalist could remember. "I'm rolling with the punches" new ceo Paul Zahra told frockwriter before the show, when asked how he is coping with his baptism of fire. Beyond the scandal that prompted the "mutual termination" of Zahra's immediate predecessor Mark McInnes on June 18 - which culminated in yesterday's shock news that the retailer is now being sued for A$37million - the company also had to contend with the sudden withdrawal of its expensive new fashion ambassador, Miranda Kerr, just a fortnight before its biggest fashion showcase of the year, after she eloped with her Hollywood fiancé Orlando Bloom. The solution: wheel in some supermodel replacements. 

Sure, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Catherine McNeil had walked in DJs shows before - years ago, prior to heading offshore to try their luck on the international fashion stage. Kershaw used to be a DJs youth ambassador. McNeil's last DJs show was in August 2007

But they returned today as modelling superstars, opening the show in tandem - in spite of reports that the show would be opened by Nicole Trunfio (who turned up a little later in the first swimwear section).

The cast was exceptional. 

Alongside Kershaw, McNeil, Trunfio, haute couture queen Alexandra Agoston and Stephanie Carta, the show included some of Australia's finest up-and-coming modelling talent, including Samantha Harris, Emily Wake, Meg Lindsay, Victoria Lee and the stupendous Ajak Deng - who arrived on a flight from New York earlier in the morning and headed straight to the show. Top of the list of brand new faces: Chic Management's exciting new name Rosemary Smith eighth shot from the bottom, below), who really stood out. 

After four years at various locations around the city trying to out-do Myer in the so-called seasonal "store wars", this season's "at home" location really worked: Djs' erstwhile designer floor on level seven. 

You could almost touch the models and you could see the details on the clothes and the accessories. 

The collections included snapshots from some of Rosemount Australian Fashion Week's best shows, including Camilla Franks' dazzling digital print kaftans, Zimmermann's geometric print tunics and leggings (but not the spectacular, fringed tabards, surprisingly) and Carla Zampatti's bold cocktail and eveningwear, as well as Akira Isogawa's vibrant floral print dresses that have not been seen on a runway.

The finale - a 40-exit ode to the nude evening gown trend, from every designer on the program - was both clever and subtle. 

Below are some backstage shots taken by frockwriter before the show.

Head to frockwriter's Posterous for our gallery of 57 runway shots - and also some of the shots we Tweeted live from backstage. 

all images: frockwriter

The Gap is opening this month in Australia - it's just not sure where

American retail juggernaut The Gap is leading the fast fashion charge to Australia, opening its first store downunder this month. Spain's Zara is also en route, ditto Japan’s Uniqlo. But is the first Gap store due to open in Melbourne, as advertised - or Sydney? Looking at The Gap’s website (screen cap above - click to enlarge; tks to Guy Willis for the tip), you’d be forgiven for thinking the company hasn’t got a blinking clue which city is which. Behind the “Melbourne” sign on the left are three Sydney icons: the Opera House, Centrepoint Tower and what appears to be Aussie Stadium. Behind the "Sydney" sign on the right are three Melbourne icons: a green tram, the Arts Centre spire and what looks very much like the Docklands. To Gap’s credit it did get the correct Luna Park – that’s Melbourne's version on the left. And that appears to be a sliver of Melbourne's Flinders Street Station behind that. Unless, of course, it’s Sydney’s Queen Victoria Building. Could The Gap please sort itself out stat. We’re pretty laid back, us Aussies, but there is a minor difference of 1160kms between the two cities.

Nicole Trunfio is "stepping in" for Miranda Kerr

david jones AW10/getty via daylife

On Wednesday frockwriter asked, Is Nicole Trunfio Miranda Kerr’s understudy at David Jones? Trunfio had arrived in Sydney a full week ahead of DJs' August 3rd Spring/Summer 2010/2011 runway show – while her high profile runway colleagues Catherine McNeil and Abbey Lee Kershaw only arrived over the last 24-48 hours. Sources also reported Trunfio has been booked for in-store signings, she Tweeted that she was excited to be “part of the David Jones family” and she features heavily in DJs SS1011 catalogue. Well lo and behold, if the headline on a page one splash of the first edition of tomorrow’s Sunday Telegraph newspaper doesn't read, “Nicole Trunfio – The next Miranda Kerr”. While inside, a story entitled "DJs next supermodel" reports “Nicole Trunfio is the heir apparent. David Jones has recruited the Aussie supermodel to lead its spring/summer fashion parade on Tuesday, stepping in for newly married Miranda Kerr”.

News Limited's interstate papers have added a few other details. 

Perth's Sunday Times headlines its version of the story:

"WA model Nicole Trunfio the new face of David Jones".

While Melbourne's Herald Sun reveals that Trunfio will be opening the show wearing camilla + marc - one of several labels to have recently defected to DJs from rival Myer, whose SS1011 runway show takes place two days later.

News Limited reports that Trunfio played down as "gossip" the “rumours” that she was being prepped to “replace” a pregnant Kerr. 

Just a reminder that an understudy is not a replacement. An understudy is someone who steps in when the lead player can’t perform.

Most modelling contracts, we are reliably informed, include a provision for suspension, in the event of unforeseen circumstances.

If Kerr is pregnant and, all going well, due in January, then it’s probably unlikely that we will be seeing her on DJs Autumn/Wiinter 2011 runway in the first week of February. It's possible, but unlikely.

It would be even more unlikely that she would be available to shoot that season’s campaign in the preceding months so really, what would be the point?

Trunfio is clearly being given star billing for next week's show and frockwriter predicts she will also be the star of next season’s campaign, with Kerr resuming duties this time next year. 

 

Is Nicole Trunfio Miranda Kerr's understudy?

getty via daylife

Speculation continues to mount regarding the August 3rd David Jones Spring/Summer 2010/2011 launch. With Miranda Kerr indisposed after tying the knot with Orlando Bloom, David Jones is attempting to fill the runway gap, as frockwriter reported on Friday, with some high profile alternatives: Abbey Lee Kershaw, Catherine McNeil, Nicole Trunfio and Alexandra Agoston - even if the latter were both in last season’s show. But the runway shows are one thing. If Kerr is three months pregnant, as many believe - with Victoria's Secret colleague Jessica White so discreetly telling OK! magazine overnight, "She's preggos!"- it's unlikely she would be available for the winter 2011 catalogue and early February runway show. Who would fill in for her? Frockwriter’s money is on Trunfio, who arrived in Sydney yesterday (above), a week ahead of the show. Our sources also report that she has been booked by DJs for a series of “in-store signings” - certainly something that would appear to go above and beyond the call of mere runway duties. Earlier today Trunfio Tweeted: “Finished my fitting for David Jones collection launch, I'm really excited, will be amazing! Ecstatic to be a part of the David Jones family!” Just walking in the show would not automatically make Trunfio, or any other model, ‘part of the David Jones family’. 


A few hours later, she Tweeted the following photo, which looks very much like a catalogue shot, claiming it was "another sneak peek of my shoot for David Jones":

nicole trunfio's twitter

Why else might Trunfio trump next week's runway superstars as a Kerr understudy?

She might not rate a ranking on models.com – while Abbey Lee Kershaw is number 5 and Catherine McNeil, number 12, with Kerr just moving up to number 21 15 (moving six spots overnight 28/7; she is also ranked number 4 in MDC’s Top 20 Sexiest Models). However Trunfio does have a highly commercial appeal – as distinct from Kershaw’s and McNeil’s high fashion cachet.

Now 25, Trunfio won season three of Ten’s Search for a Supermodel reality show in 2002, later coming third in the show's international edition.

She has US tv cred, having been hired as a model mentor for the second season of US reality show, Make Me A Supermodel.

Trunfio’s international work includes runway and/or advertising for major brands such as Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Christian Dior, Gucci, Fendi, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld, Sonia Rykiel, Lacoste, Sisley, BCBG Max Azria and Guess. And she has also done some work for Victoria's Secret.
 

She has three Vogue Australia covers under her belt. 

And last month she appeared in a racy spread in GQ Italy (video below).

David Jones' last fashion ambassador, Megan Gale, relaunched her modelling career as an Italian sex goddess. Kerr’s contract with Victoria’s Secret has kept her front-of-mind with the male population (hence the banker incident).

In all probability, DJs does not really want a high fashion ice queen as its ambassador, but a red-blooded bombshell who is going to attract a lot of mainstream attention.

Trunfio may fit the bill should Kerr need to take more time off. 

Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and others reportedly to offer plus size clothing at Saks Fifth Avenue, while France launches a plus size manifesto

karl lagerfeld for V via models.com

It’s been interesting tracking the story of plus sized designer clothing over the past two years. In March 2008, at Fully Chic, we incurred the wrath of some plus-sized consumers after reporting that although Target Australia made up to a size 16 in its Stella McCartney collection in 2007, so much size 16 merch was left on the sales racks Target stopped at a 14 when it came to producing its next collab with Zac Posen. Several weeks later we reported that Australian designer Leona Edmiston was doubling her size range to a 24 – but only in her online boutique. The story triggered a heated debate amongst those who lauded Edmiston's pioneering efforts - and those who claimed the move was “normalising obesity". Last year, Today Tonight took size 16 Melbourne blogger Hayley Hughes undercover into Melbourne’s Chapel Street. She found virtually no merchandise over size 12. Eighteen designers and retailers refused to discuss with the program why fashion's high end actively discriminates against larger consumers by ignoring them, with insiders citing concerns the issue was "bad for their image". So it was with some surprise that we spotted what could be the best-kept secret in the fashion business: a report that Saks Fifth Avenue is about to trial plus sizes from luxury brands including Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce e Gabbana and Fendi on its New York designer womenswear floor.

New York retail blog Racked reports:

“Saks Fifth Avenue is about to become the only major retailer in the city to carry plus-sized womenswear by names like Chanel and Dolce & Gabbana. Coming very soon to the department store's super high-end third floor, fall and winter plus-sized pieces will be mixed right in with existing stock—most of which would formerly have only been available in sizes ranging to a 10. Stock will reach size 14 (Australian size 18) across the board, and in some cases—depending on the brand—will go up to a size 20 (Australian size 24)".

The story also mentions the brands Akris, Armani, Carolina Herrera, Escada, Donna Karan, St. John, Oscar de la Renta, Max Mara, Valentino, Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Roberto Cavalli.

The plus-size pieces will be one-offs, reports Racked, adding that if the trial is successful it may be rolled out to other stores.

No sources are cited beyond the Saks website, which makes no reference to the initiative. Due to the time difference, it was difficult to track down anyone who could throw further light on the matter. Frockwriter is waiting to hear back from Saks Fifth Avenue, Chanel USA and the Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce e Gabbana and Fendi head offices.
 
Chanel Australia knew nothing about it. 

UPDATE 28/07: A full business day later and no response from any of the above. Nor does there appear to be any comment from either Saks or any of the brands reportedly involved in the plus size trial in the deluge of coverage that has since ensued on this story. This is not surprising, given my experience with October's Today Tonight story and even the Leona Edmiston story two years ago. After doubling her size range to 24 in her online boutique, Edmiston declined all interviews. Sources indicated this was out of fear of being branded "a plus size designer". Fashion companies may be warming to the idea of going after the fat dollar, but they still seem to think there's a stigma attached to it. 
 
Coincidentally, Chanel recently cast plus size model Crystal Renn in its Cruise 2011 show. 

In January, Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld also shot plus size burlesque artist Miss Dirty Martini for V Magazine’s Size issue (above), one of a raft of recent fashion titles that have been dedicated to larger sizes. They include ELLE Spéciale Rondes and Vogue Curvy.

Curiously, Lagerfeld's V Size issue shoot followed a matter of months after he derided efforts by German magazine Brigitte to use “ordinary, realistic” women rather than professional models as “absurd”, adding that the world of fashion is about "dreams and illusions.... noone wants to see round women" and describing those leading the chorus of disapproval against skinny models as:

"fat mummies sitting with their bags of crisps in front of the television."

The Saks Fifth Avenue story coincides with news of the launch of a "Manifesto for the Visibility of Plus Size Fashion" by online French magazine Ma Grande Taille.

Citing data published by the French Institute of Textiles and Clothing, which indicates that more than 40percent of the French population wear plus size clothes, the manifesto boasts over 1000 signatories including plus size model Johanna Dray and celebrity Velvet d’Amour. 

I first interviewed d'Amour in Paris in October 2006, after she walked in Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2007 show - and then again in 2008. At 130kgs, d'Amour has been considered too big for even the plus-size modelling industry. 

“My hope is that it [the manifesto] would indeed make a difference - if nothing else it details what we look to change- inclusion, particularly in fashion” she told frockwriter, adding that the biggest buzz in the plus-size industry at the moment is the controversy over Renn's alleged weight loss.

"Personally I think if we were allowed more then ONE HUMAN BEING to represent our entire chubby populace then we wouldn't be so entirely focused on her. Given her anorexic issues in the past, it cant be easy for her to have everyone and their second cousin demonizing her for fluctuation. She is not the one who books models for mags. I think the question is less about Crystal, and more about the fact that while we are globally millions strong, we have, more or less, just one individual who has made her way into the mainstream magazines. Her weight fluctuations are dramatic, and they are all her own. As I have always been on the far extreme end of ‘plus’ modeling, people would equally debate my status as a ‘plus’ model, stating I was a “bbw”, not a plus model.

“We need to push for media inclusion, so that all shapes and sizes etc ‘belong’. When the media excludes us to such an extreme, magazines like PLUS are what get started. Models make their own way, and people who haven’t the ‘right’ to be considered a ‘plus’ model, or a straight size model, etc pick up the camera and start their own revolution. If we can use the frustration our exodus encites in a positive manner, then there will be no stopping us, and there will be so many damn fat models getting thin and thin models getting fat, that we wont have time to debate it, because we will be on the way to our next shooting ;o)".

On June 27th, the Australian federal government's National Body Image Advisory Group unveiled its Voluntary Industry Code of Conduct on Body Image. The code's  industry recommendations include using a greater diversity of body shapes in the promotion of fashion and the need for retailers to embrace a wider range of sizes to better reflect consumer demand.